Domaine Lamarche and the Women Behind拉玛舒酒庄和它背后的女人(下)

拉玛舒酒庄和它背后的女人

Domaine Lamarche and the Women Behind

陈微然 Sylvia CHEN 


由于当天酒窖气温太低,酒也是太新,还没有太稳定。所以Nicole特意又准备两瓶2009年的葡萄酒供我对比,我选了1er cru les suchots。到特级园的时候不太好意思说自己挑,就让Nicole来选,未曾想她大方的拿来了2009年的La grand rue!

Vosne Romanee 1er cur Les Suchots 2009

成熟的果香,夹带烟熏和泥土的味道,口中少了些活跃的酸度,多了些柔和圆润的口感,余韵不长,但同样充满了成熟的果香。和古灵精怪的2010相比,2009年她家的酒则更像是珠圆玉润的杨贵妃了。

Vosne Romanee grand cru La Grand Rue 2009

更加复杂的香气,肉干,甘草和肉桂的味道,当然还不能少的是成熟的果香。本以为2009年这么一个偏热的年份,酸度要差些,实际的酸度却比想象中高,而且还比较活跃,单宁更加柔和细致,力度比2010年偏弱。

Vosne Romanee grand cru La Grand Rue 2010

因为酒窖中温度低,所以葡萄酒相对封闭,此次放在合适的温度中并且醒了20分钟左右,果香盛放,满是些新鲜的红色水果的气息,入口柔和,单宁华润,酸度活跃,整体平衡。并不是华丽丽的一款葡萄酒,却让人总忍不住回想,总忍不住再添一杯。

在一个“男权至上”的领域当中,女酿酒师的才华往往被掩盖或轻视。曾有一段时间,因为各种原因拉玛舒酒庄的名号在村中并不响亮,在复兴酒园的这条路上,全家人都走得很艰难。Nicole这时候对他爸爸保证,她将会带领整个酒庄走上顶峰。由此她更换了酿酒顾问,采用一部分生物动力学和有机种植学原理,用心经营,用仅仅六年的时间,重新获得了酒庄的声誉。在盲品当中,她家的La Grand Rue通常仅屈居于DRC罗曼尼康帝之后。

对生物动力酿造法她也并未一味追寻,如今她连有机葡萄园都没有注册,便是怕有一日这种方法出了问题或弊端日渐显露,她还能够有回旋的余地。她并未选用生物动力法中复杂的准备制剂,只是在种植和酿造的过程中参考月相,选择在月相好时采收和罐瓶,她说世间万物之间的兴衰都是相互交错,相互连结,这日月变化,斗转星移总归会对在这大地上成长的生物有所影响。这倒是非常像中国的传统思想。她喜欢吃中国菜,尤其喜欢吃辣,会开车几十公里奔到第戎吃那里最美味的中餐。她喜欢这哥特风的打扮,她是这顶级酒园背后的支柱,她也是两个孩子的母亲。她睿智,果断,坚强,总之,她是个绝对让人过目不忘的聪明女人!

Prowein, Explore the hidden treasure【德国酒展Prowein报道】非主流葡萄酒产国见闻

【德国酒展Prowein报道】非主流葡萄酒产国见闻

Prowein, Explore the hidden treasure

陈微然 Sylvia CHEN

Moldova

摩尔多瓦的葡萄酒产业相对较新,三个月前摩尔多瓦农业部门才划定了葡萄酒法定产区。摩尔多瓦的葡萄酒现今还处于以低价求市场的阶段,白葡萄酒清新,易饮,红葡萄酒属于野性奔放型。

葡萄酒的主要产区在国家的中部Central Codru Zone,有60%的葡萄酒都产自这个地区。整个地区春秋多雨,冬季最低温度可达到零下30度,夏季的最高温度在25度左右。当地种植的葡萄品种以本地品种为主,但是近些年为了走进国际市场种植了不少国际流行品种。

Prowein上展出的摩尔多瓦葡萄酒大多来自比较有实力的大厂,看酒庄的宣传资料,不少已经有一定的规模,展会上看包装和宣传方式也能跟得上当前的趋势。整个摩尔多瓦往中国的出口每年居然有一百万瓶,自2006年俄罗斯对摩尔多瓦实施禁运以后,中国市场就成了摩尔多瓦的主要目标。

值得一提的是,摩尔多瓦还有专门的网站介绍本国的葡萄酒www.vinmoldova.md,有英语,俄语,罗马尼亚语三种语言,网站的信息非常详细,有当地的活动,当地几乎所有葡萄酒酒庄的介绍和联系方式。而且摩尔多瓦的葡萄酒酒庄非常善于和国外寻求资助,此次展会的经费有75%都有外部的援助,分别来自美国和荷兰的基金会。

Georgia

今年的Prowein,格鲁吉亚占据了不小的展台,作为葡萄种植的发祥地同时也是一个古老的酿酒国度。不少格鲁吉亚的酒厂都会在采用传奎弗瑞陶罐酿制法的同时,采用欧式的葡萄酒酿造方式。白葡萄酒以清淡果香型为主,略带残糖,陶罐酿制的红葡萄酒入口柔顺但后端单宁粗强。格鲁吉亚的葡萄酒产区被国土中段的Likhi山脉分为东西两段,东部偏干燥,但光照相对充足葡萄的含糖量较高,西部频临黑海,受海洋影响气候相对温和。整个国家最高温度夏天在30°冬天在-1°左右。传统的陶罐酿制法会把葡萄连皮籽入罐陈年5-6个月后装瓶,东部的葡萄酒产区白葡萄酒酿制也采用此法。成酒香气浓郁,单宁粗强。

Romania

罗马尼亚的葡萄酒业由于有政府补助,整个发展势头强劲, 越来越多的国民参与到葡萄酒事业当中来。酒农每新种植一公顷葡萄园能够拿到2000-5000欧不等的政府补助,让不少东欧国家的酒厂眼红。罗马尼亚以产国际流行品种酿造的葡萄酒为主,也有一部分当地的特有品种Feteasca Neagra,Feteasca Alba  分别是红白葡萄品种的代表。分级制度为VM 餐桌酒,VMS优等餐桌酒,VS 地区餐酒, DOC 法定产区葡萄酒。其中DOC又按照含糖量不通分3个级别,全熟采摘,迟摘和贵腐。我尝到的几家酒厂主要还是以法国的风格为主。

Turkey

土耳其由于是下一届欧洲葡萄酒峰会的举办地,所以在欧美的网络媒体上红火了一阵。整个土耳其在葡萄酒推广方面还是相当开放和积极。几乎欧洲各大酒展都有他们的身影。用的酿酒葡萄以当地品种为主,国际流行品种也占了不少份额,白葡萄以Emir, Narince为代表,红葡萄以Okuzgozu, Bogazkere为代表。白葡萄酒为清淡果香型,红葡萄酒普遍是中重酒体,有不少波尔多混酿,做的挺有波尔多的神韵,就是欠些精细和平衡。

在这些东欧国家的葡萄酒推广有些进退两难,如果想更好的向国际市场进发,就得用国际流行葡萄品种,有时不免向知名产区的风格靠拢。如果想发展出自我风格,采用当地品种,语言这个天然的障碍给葡萄酒的国际化添加不少阻力。如何选择,必有取舍。

Isreal

以色列的酒厂以出产国际流行葡萄品种为主,值得一提的是,我尝到Yarden和其他酒厂的的Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc,Chardonnay,Viognier都脱离了教科书式的风格。对中国人来说可能不太习惯这种味道,但对以色列本土的葡萄酒产业来说,这种本国特色未尝不是好事。非常推荐Yarden家的SyrahCabernet Sauvignon, 2007年份的Syrah充满了红果酱的味道,而后出现的肉汁和香料的气息更让人沉醉,中重酒体,入口柔和,单宁顺滑,绵长的回味。单一葡萄园的Syrah在凝缩度方面又上了一个档次,15%的酒精度却也不那么明显,质量上乘。2008年的Cabernet Sauvignon经过18个月橡木桶的陈年,香气以浓郁的黑粒子为主,入口酸度坚挺,单宁柔和却有十分力度。

关于参加Prowein的一点小建议

7.8个展厅实在太大,一定要提前做好功课,把想去的酒庄展位记好,并且按照展厅排好顺序。展会上的活动大多用德文,个别用英文的活动会特别标出,一定要留意。由于举办地在德国,大多数人还是冲着德国,奥地利的葡萄酒去,前两天最好走走其他国家。基本上最后一天下午参展商会陆陆续续离场,可以把这两个国家放在最后一天上午。对于进口商的建议是一定要选好酒庄,提前预约会谈,大部分酒庄的日程都很满,你会发现酒庄会议席每时每刻都有人,根本没有你插足的余地。

DRC假酒门后续报道,始作俑者被FBI在美国逮捕

Sylvia CHEN 陈微然

Rudy Kurniawan于3月8日在洛杉矶被美国FBI以多项造假指控逮捕。Rudy Kurniawan一直活跃于商贾巨富和葡萄酒收藏家的社交圈中。这位30出头的新富在2000年中在葡萄酒圈中横空出世,不断在各大拍卖上频频有大手笔行动,每月有近1百万美元的花销。作为葡萄酒收藏家,他对他的客户提供无条件退货的承诺,以此建立良好的声誉并吸引了很多重要的客户。在晚宴上,他也经常豪爽的为同桌的参与者买单。

他的藏品第一次出事是在2007年的旧金山佳士得拍卖,他准备拍卖的6瓶1982年Magnum Chateau Le Pin被印在拍卖目录的封面。不幸的是,酒庄的负责人一眼就认出是假货,经过佳士得重新查看之后确定是假酒,撤拍。最著名事件的应属2008年,他准备通过Acker Merrall拍卖行卖出一系列极其珍贵的,前所未见的Ponsot’s Clos St-Denis 1945, 1949, 1959, 1962, 1966, 1971以及产自酒庄的1929年份的葡萄酒。但问题是酒庄1934年才建立,1982年以后Ponsot才开始出产Clos St-Denis。这种低级的造假很快被识破,酒庄立即叫停了拍卖。今年2月,由于酒标明显与原品不符,DRC英国代理商向Spectrum&Vanquish提出撤销此次对DRC几个稀少年份的拍卖。加州律师和葡萄酒收藏家Don Cornwell在网站上也提出15项差异表示对这批拍品的质疑。这批酒也是源自这位Rudy Kurniawan。

层出不穷的假酒事件让人们对他的背景充满了好奇,很多客户也在质疑者巨额的财富和令人生畏的藏酒是如何同时被一位30出头的小伙子同时纳入囊中的。当被问及葡萄酒的来源时,他坚持说藏品均来自亚洲的联系人,还给了调查员两个电话号码。只不过一个是印度尼西亚航空的电话,一个是某超市的电话。不少报道中说他是长居美国的印度尼西亚人,不过因为假酒事件他惹火了著名收藏家William Koch, 2009年William Koch对他提起诉讼并且进行深入调查。无论怎样,这位 Rudy Kurniawan纸醉金迷的奢华生活怕是要告以段落了。

 

 NYtimes纽约时报原文:  http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/09/nyregion/wine-dealer-accused-of-trying-to-sell-counterfeits.html

Renowned Wine Dealer Accused of Trying to Sell Counterfeits

By  and MATT FLEGENHEIMER
Rudy Kurniawan had ascended to the upper reaches of the wine world on both coasts, renowned as much for his palate as for his eye, fixed often on the highest of high-end bottles.

His presence at auctions was constant, at events in Beverly Hills, and offerings at Sotheby’s in New York. His interest by itself was enough to drive prices at the top of the market.

And as his collection brought in millions, Mr. Kurniawan made a show of his own authenticity, offering major buyers an unconditional return policy — exceedingly rare in the industry — while attracting a clientele that included the billionaire William I. Koch.

But on Thursday, in the culmination of persistent rumblings about the veracity of his products, Mr. Kurniawan was arrested in Los Angeles by the Federal Bureau of Investigation on charges that he had tried to sell counterfeit wine that, if genuine, would have been worth $1.3 million.

Mr. Kurniawan, who sold $35 million worth of wine in 2006 alone, was taken into custody in Los Angeles on mail and wire fraud charges filed in federal court in New York, according to court papers. Prosecutors from the office of the United States attorney in Manhattan said they expected him to be transferred to New York in the coming days.

The criminal complaint in the case said that in 2008, Mr. Kurniawan consigned for auction at least 84 bottles of counterfeit wine purporting to be from Domaine Ponsot in Burgundy, France, which were expected to sell for approximately $600,000. Although he represented the wine as authentic, it was not, prosecutors said.

He was also charged with trying to sell a single bottle that he claimed was a 1929 Domaine Ponsot. That was not possible, according to the complaint, because Domaine Ponsot did not begin estate bottling until 1934.

Mr. Kurniawan, 35, of Arcadia, Calif., was also charged with fraudulently obtaining millions of dollars in loans to finance what prosecutors called his “high-end lifestyle.”

Mr. Kurniawan was arrested by agents from an elite squad based in New York that focuses on crimes involving art, antiques and other collectibles. At a hearing in United States District Court in Los Angeles on Thursday, prosecutors said a search of Mr. Kurniawan’s home had turned up materials used in the counterfeiting of wine bottles, according to a person briefed on the proceeding.

Mr. Kurniawan, according to the complaint, also consigned wine that had purportedly been bottled between 1945 and 1971 from the Clos St.-Denis vineyard by Domaine Ponsot, even though the domaine did not make wine from that vineyard until 1982. The wines were later withdrawn from the auction at the request of Domaine Ponsot’s administrator.

When the administrator questioned Mr. Kurniawan about the source of the counterfeit wines, he maintained that he had obtained the bottles from a person in Asia and had given the administrator two telephone numbers for that person, according to the complaint.

But neither number led to that person or anyone else who sold wine, the complaint said; one number was for a regional Indonesian airline and the other was for a shopping mall in Jakarta.

Mr. Kurniawan’s lawyer, Luis Li of Munger, Tolles & Olson LLP in Los Angeles, said he was evaluating the charges but declined to comment further. The arrest of Mr. Kurniawan, who is charged with three counts of wire fraud and three counts of mail fraud, was announced in a news release issued by the office of the United States attorney in Manhattan. “The bad-faith sale of any commodity you know to be a counterfeit, fake or forgery is a felony,” Janice K. Fedarcyk, the F.B.I.’s assistant director in charge of the New York office, said in the news release. “Whether you are peddling a Picasso or a Petrus, a Botticelli or a Burgundy, unless it is what you say it is, the sale is a fraud.”

Indeed, for years, restaurants and top cellars in New York and Los Angeles awaited the inevitable windfall that accompanied Mr. Kurniawan’s arrival, as he and guests laid waste to the most expensive bottles on the wine list.

“We knew of him,” said Tim Kopec, the former wine director at Veritas, “prior to him walking through the doors.”

In 2006, Mr. Kurniawan jarred industry observers by offering buyers a guarantee intended to protect against fraud. One former sommelier in Manhattan, who requested anonymity because he is named in the complaint, recalled the ploy as “a real move of bravado.”

“It was very unusual, the first time I’d ever seen it,” he said. But as Mr. Kurniawan’s profile grew, the sommelier added, questions were raised about his collection’s contents. How did a man so young, some fellow collectors began to wonder, amass bottles so rare?

The grumblings crested in 2009, when Mr. Koch filed suit against Mr. Kurniawan, claiming he had been sold five counterfeit bottles at the New York auction house Acker, Merrall, & Condit, according to news reports. Because of this recent history, arriving amid a spate of other industry allegations concerning counterfeit sales, Mr. Kopec said the arrest was unlikely to ruffle the wine world significantly. “The industry is rife with bogus wine, usually at the very, very highest level,” he said. “That would be the most attractive segment if you were going to be unscrupulous.”

Mr. Kurniawan is an Indonesian citizen whose asylum application was denied in 2001, when he was ordered to leave the United States, according to the criminal complaint, which was sworn out by F.B.I. Special Agent James P. Wynne, head of the Major Theft Squad.

Mr. Kurniawan, whom the complaint says is also known as Dr. Conti, appealed, but his appeal was denied and he was again ordered to leave the country. He did not comply, and since April 2003 has been living in California, the complaint said.

United States Magistrate Judge Stephen J. Hillman initially ordered Mr. Kurniawan released on a $175,000 bond, secured by property. But after prosecutors expressed their concern that he would flee, the judge stayed his decision, and prosecutors have said they will appeal.

“Mr. Kurniawan’s days of wine and wealth are over, if the allegations in this case are proven,” the United States attorney, Preet Bharara said in the news release. “As alleged, Rudy Kurniawan held himself out to be a wine aficionado with a nose for a counterfeit bottle, but he was the counterfeit, pawning off prodigious quantities of fraudulent wine himself to unsuspecting auction houses and collectors.”

 

Call me Weibo, Loud and Proud

Call me Weibo, Loud and Proud.

— The importance of Weibo in the Chinese wine industry

Sylvia CHEN

Attention please, for those who wanted to go into the chinese market, an important chinese word you need to learn today is “微博” (Weibo).

Weibo is the microblog which had been well spread all over China. China Daily reported that Sina Weibo boost of 140 million users and 50 million active monthly users. Sina claims 10 million new accounts signed up each month. Compare to 56 million users and 21 million active monthly users of Twitter (Cited in The Guardian UK)Weibo’s influence could be enormous in China. Not to mention we don’t even have the access to Twitter. No more twitter or chinese twitter, say “Weibo” now.

 

 

With the rapid life path, people could no longer digest lengthy articles which need you “Page Down” more than three times. We need the information which is quick, short and essential. That is exactly why people goes for Weibo first and then search for more information on website, newspaper or magzine if interested. Nowadays, when people met each other, after exchange for the telephone number, they will ask for the Weibo account to closely keep in touch.

According to the research by Wine Intellegence, 74% of people often use Internet as the sources of wine information in China. In the mean time, Sine Weibo ranks the third in Top 5 websites use to source wine information in China. It is only 5% percent short of Baidu (Chinese version of Google if you would like to say). Most wine experts, wine bloggers and wine lovers had their Weibo account. They share their passion, exchange their information, discuss about the industry and recommend wines to each other. 62% of people would use social network as their major source for wine information. That is very special in the consumer goods market. People will not get on line to find information of other beverage before they buy it.

Personally, I think the best example for personal Weibo marketing in wine sector is the famous French wine critic “Michel Bettane”. Although Michel Battane is fairly important and prestige in France, his name is barely known to the Chinese wine lover until he got a Weibo account. The women behind is a intelligent chinese women who now live in Paris. She posted interesting and valuable miniblog everyday which made Michel Battane over 70,000 followers in China. His account is among the the most famous and successful one in wine sector.

It is not easy to use Weibo as part of your marketing strategy. Most foreigners had neither patience nor interest to know it inside out. The content, the interval, the timing and the interactions with their audience. All of these made the foreigners had no where to start.

Whether there will be a need for Chinese social network specialist. We’ll wait and see.