Is your wine blog readable?

Sylvia Chen

Have a glimpse online. How many wine blogs are still presenting incredibly long and fancy tasting notes? How many are just providing the old information of wine tasting, food and wine matching? Or regional wine studying?

Plenty of people wrote wine blog while making duplicates. Are these wine blogs readable? I doubt. Then it comes out another question. What makes your wine blog readable?

This October, I went to the recent European Wine Bloggers’ Conference in Italia Franciacorta. While enjoying the great food and wine, I met a great number of excellent bloggers. It also makes me to self-reflect and find answers to these questions.

Be innovative

While most wine bloggers stick to the cliché of wine, David Lowe started the tech and wine blog, Bigpinots, in mid-2010. His blog opened up a new area of wine blogging by talking about the use of social media techniques in the wine industry. He got thousands of followers on Twitter and his blog drew those fascinated by the mix of technology and wine. Interestingly, he also got a traditional wine blog before.

Canadian blogger Valerie Brockbank also innovated by creating Wine Dog Review. Her starting point was to be friendly and approachable. A wine dog could never be a wine snob. “I write from a dog’s point of view,” Valerie said. “They are just happy to be at the winery and will not try to distinguish the difference between truffles”

Be condensed

“Keep your articles short so that you will make your audience concentrated,” said George M. Taber, author of Judgment of Paris.

Gregory Dal Piaz, editor in chief of snooth.com, wrote articles twice a day with no more than two hundred words.

Be interactive

“Talk with people rather than talk at people” said Gregory. “It’s a lot of work, you have to go and you have to respond. It can also be pretty upsetting because people will call you an idiot. But if you want to be a good blogger or writer, you have to accept the critics when you are writing!”

Be authentic

Since thousands of people could get access to your wineblog, it is important to write authentically, “I think the most important thing is to keep researching,” said George Taber. “People get lazy after a while and coast on their accumulated knowledge.”

At the conference, an interesting phenomenon during the storytelling session occurred when people kept quoting the production numbers of a champagne house. The fact originated from Jason Turner, an Austrian wine writer. “I could say that because I’m sure about the fact, but what if others aren’t?” Jason said.

Luckily he got it right because this figure was tweeted several times around the world! For me, being authentic is an obligation – NOT A CHOICE.

沙布利酒节(二)霞多丽的狂欢


陈微然 Sylvia Chen

 

“姑娘,告诉我你最喜欢哪里的白葡萄酒?”我在酒展上遇到的一位酒农这样问我

“沙布利啊,肯定是沙布利啊!”

他轻轻地哼了一声说“沙布利?那是巴黎小妞才喝的玩意儿”

相比国内的高认知度,沙布利葡萄酒在法国似乎不那么讨好,来法国四个月,我见到的法国人一听到沙布利葡萄酒大多都是皱皱眉头或者摇摇头说“我可真不喜欢她”

然而对于我来说,这块几乎仅种植霞多丽葡萄的田地出产着我最为挚爱的白葡萄酒。于是,在10月的第三个周末,我前往沙布利酒节,准备亲临一场霞多丽的狂欢。

穿上最厚的衣服,准备好一天的行囊,驱车两个小时来到了位于第戎西北方向的沙布利(Chablis)小城。本以为更加靠北边的沙布利比第戎还要冷一些,却未曾想沙布利,用温暖和阳光迎接了前来朝圣的我。

沙布利是个很小的村庄,甚至没有直达的火车经过。去沙布利要在先乘火车到奥塞尔(Auxerre),然后换乘公共汽车。村庄的葡萄酒旅游做的非常好,每家酒庄的品鉴室都有指示牌引导,7个特级园(Blanchot,Bougrot,Les Clos, Grenouilles, Les Preuses, Valmur, Vaudésirs)也距离小村中心只有5,6分钟。你可以花上一天的时间拜访酒庄,徒步探访特级园,最后还可以选择在让· 马克布罗卡尔(Jean Marc Brocard)酒庄的下属酒店住下。

难得见到法国人这么勤快,早早的搭起白色的棚子,开始为酒节准备。进去一瞧,几乎沙布利产区有名的大小酒厂都来参展了。不过,比酒更吸引人的是那从老远就能闻道的阵阵食物的香气。循着味道,没走几步就看到了烧烤的摊子,一排排油滋滋的Andouillette 香肠,典型的沙布利村传统美食。它是将牛肚和猪大肠灌制在肠衣里,制作而成。经过炭火烤制,外焦里嫩,可口多汁。满足口舌之欲后,感觉略微有点腻人,看到沙布利的大合作社沙布利人(La chablisienne) 正热情的招待,于是走去打算寻得一杯酸度刚好解油腻的沙布利。La chablisienne, Chateau Grenouilles 2008。有点奢侈,选了他家的头牌,特级园Grenouilles。丰富的矿物气息夹杂着贝类的鲜味,让我有点后悔没拿它来搭配海鲜。不过口中酸度圆润活跃,不尖锐,解油腻倒是刚刚好。雅致的沙布利和乡村美食的配搭,这次倒不如让住在海边的富家小姐和乡下穷小子为爱结婚吧。

看到沙布利的大厂William Fevre(音译:威廉-菲舞鹤)也在其中,也凑过去想要试试。只不过可能名声太过响亮,围在周边的人特别的多,酒厂代表也是爱答不理的。试了他家2009年的特级园Bourgro,真是个不怎么美好的经历。酒杯中飘满了酸奶的味道,酸度也太高,口中感受到的风味也不饱满。

无意中瞥见Pascal Bouchard(音译:帕斯卡尔· 布沙)的儿子Romain,过去打了个招呼试了试他接手之后的Domaine de la Grande Chaume,一个3.38公顷的葡萄园。酒庄从07年开始向有机转变,2010年是第一个认证的有机年份,整个酒标也有相应的变化。试了2010年的一级园Vaillons,柑橘和矿物的气息浓郁,酒体尤其饱满,较好的酸度之中有极其丰富的果香作为支撑,余韵悠长。在众多瘦弱,干瘪,酸度还相当凸现的沙布利当中,这款Romain家的有机沙布利脱颖而出。可能是10个月的酒渣陈酿(Sur Lie)造就了这饱满的酒体,后来我在沙布利的特级园里晒着太阳,看着遒劲的老藤,一连喝了很多杯。

Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin(音译:让· 保罗本诺杜鲁安 )就在Romain Bouchard摊位的旁边,虽然不太起眼,不过 Droin(杜鲁安)家族14代的兢兢业业,快400年的酿酒历史让酒庄闻名遐迩。Benoit本人和一个酒庄的忠实老客户代表酒庄向大家推介自家的酒品,两个人非常的淳朴,我们聊的很开心,也尝了很多优质的沙布利。2010年普通的村庄级就已经很好喝,清爽的果香简单直接,酸度无需陈年就已很顺滑。一级园Vaillons后端的口中风味的支撑和矿物的气息堪称完美,一段时间过后竟然还有回甘。一级园Montmains相对比较含蓄,但口中风味的集中度很高,还有持之以恒的美秒酸度。借用BBR勃艮第买手Jasper Morris MW的话说“她虚无,飘渺,灵动”。一级园Mont de milieu相对来说白花和桃子的味道比较突出。他说2010年只是个普通的年份,六月花期很不顺,开花后连续的降雨,大雾又让这些葡萄受了不少苦。这让我更加期待他家在好年份当中的表现,可惜的是酒庄的产量并没有很大,多数的葡萄酒在每年新酒发布之后的两三个月里面都销售告罄。他说大概一周以后,他2010年的酒也要卖完了。

简短的休息过后,我开始认真品尝他家的两个特级园Vaudesir和Valmur。Vaudesir相对比较阴柔,花香和桃子的味道占主导而Valmur就相对阳刚有力,酒体丰满口中风味的集中。临近午时,村民们摆出了一盘盘多汁的生蚝和鲜美的大虾。说来惭愧,虽然最喜欢沙布丽,但却怎么也吃不惯生蚝。虽然这生蚝看起来肉欲十足,但只要一想到把一个活生生的东西直接吞进肚里,浑身都不舒服。还好有这鲜香的大虾,肉质滑嫩甘甜,挤上点柠檬汁,更是沙布丽的绝配。

 

 

 

 

 

 

沙布利酒节(一) 与Long Depaquit酒庄的亲密接触

Sylvia Chen 陈微然

穿上最厚的衣服,准备好一天的行囊,驱车两个小时来到了位于第戎西北方向的沙布利(Chablis)小城。本以为更加靠北边的沙布利比第戎还要冷一些,却未曾想沙布利,这个出产让我最心驰神往的白葡萄酒的地方,用温暖和阳光迎接了前来朝圣的我。

沙布利是个很小的村庄,甚至没有直达的火车经过。去沙布利要在先乘火车到奥塞尔(Auxerre),然后换乘公共汽车。村庄的葡萄酒旅游做的非常好,每家酒庄的品鉴室都有指示牌引导,7个特级园也距离小村中心只有5,6分钟。你可以花上一天的时间拜访酒庄,徒步探访特级园,最后还可以选择在Jean Marc Brocard酒庄的下属酒店住下。

我们本是为沙布利酒节而来,却在途中幸运的接受到了Domaine Long Depaquit(朗德巴吉酒庄)的邀请。这个在特级园Vaudésirs当中有一片2.35公顷独占田的酒庄现在由勃艮第实力集团Albert Bichot (阿尔贝特 毕肖)所有。偌大的城堡在小村的中心显得气派十足。

我本以为这只是酒庄的接待和展示区,但接待我们的夫人告诉我,城堡里面全是酿酒的设备。无法想象,庄园的葡萄酒就是在这样的城堡中酿造陈年最终装瓶成为一件伟大的艺术品。

Domaine Long-Depaquit, chablis 2008

传统的柠檬,柑橘类气息,矿物的味道还没有太发展出来,并不招摇。中度酒体,口感顺滑,酸度还略有些尖锐。不过拥有相当不错的回味。酸度柔化之后应该是具有一定实力的基本款。

Les Vaillons, 1er cru 2008

浓郁的奶酪味,在口中有坚果和少许矿物的气息,奶油般顺滑饱满的质感。更加柔和充沛的酸度,因为平衡感很好,所以并不觉得酸度很高。余韵相对优雅,柔弱。

公认的沙布利左岸(这里指Le Serein河)实力一级酒园,是优雅经典沙布利的代表。地图的左边是vaillons, les vaillons包括Beugnons, Chatains, Epinottes, Les Lys, Mélinots, Roncieres 和 Sécher这几个酒园,也就是左边红五角星的那片区域都可以被标注为les vaillons,同时也可以标注上述任何一个单一葡萄园的名号。

下面品尝的一款来自Vaucoupin, 在沙布利的右岸。有着非常好的陡峭地势和朝南的走向。

les Vaucopins, 2008

不知为什么,这款有些芦笋的味道还呈现少许奶酪的气息。在口中风味充沛,蜂蜜和柑橘的味道充满口腔。一如既往的柔顺,酒体略微偏重,酸度活跃。

La Moutonne 2008

主角登场了,这片独占田位于特级葡萄园Vaudésirs当中,常常被人们冠以第八块特级葡萄园的称号。1868年被Dr Guyot也就是发明了居约剪枝法的居约博士称为沙布利最好的葡萄酒之一。这片独占田在1972年全部归属于毕肖家族所有。并且在数年的谈判之后,毕肖家族可以在葡萄酒上标注la moutonne Grand Cru 而不需再以Vaudésirs为葡萄酒的产区命名。

矿物和干奶酪的气息,夹杂着少许青苹果的味道,优雅微妙。口中感受到娇好的酸度,并不尖锐。只是酸度的持续性不强,后端也缺少些风味的支撑,结束时还感到有些单宁似的收敛感,酸度有点咬口,略有失望。

而后分别尝了2007年的Blanchot和les clos。Blanchot是稳定的高水平表现,矿物和葡萄柚的香气交织,酒体中轻,口中感受到更多的果香。非常好的平衡感,奶油般的质地。还是酸度的持续性略弱,余韵有些微弱。Les clos是比较让人失望,作为公认的实力最强的特级园,它做到了新鲜爽脆的酸度,和相对复杂的香气,不过酸度在余韵当中的收敛感很恼人,还是跟La moutonne 后段一样,酸度咬口另舌面干涩。或许是刚开瓶没有醒酒的缘故?

虽然long depaquit的几个特级葡萄园有些不尽如人意,不过之后在沙布利酒节上发现的实力酒款弥补了当天的遗憾。

Domaine Philippe Charlopin under the label of CASINO

Sylvia Chen 陈微然

It was really a coincidence that I found Domaine Philippe Charlopin in the supermarket. At first, I was fairly excited by the price which only around 20euros. Later, I was curious because I saw plenty of other big names with the label of the same pattern.

It’s incredible that we could find this kind of wine in the French supermarket.  I only knew it afterwards that Casino associated with altogether 10 big names and present a CLUB DES SOMMELIERS GRANDES RÉSERVES series for the annual wine festival (Foire au x vins). They are  Pichon Baron in Pauillac, Suduiraut in Sauternes, Dufort-Vivens in Margaux, Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac Leognan and St-Emilion grand cru, Michel Chapoutier in St Joseph, Georges Duboeuf in moulin à vent , René Monnier in  beaune 1er cru and meursaultPhilippe Charlopin in Gevery-chambertin, Galoupet et Vannières in Provence.

Domaine Philippe Charlopin, Gevery-Charmbertin, 2008

Soybean sauce and hint of oxidation at first made me think it had a poor storage situation.

Yet, after 20mins, it developped into meaty and oily, that is a very complex nose which made you feel their is plenty of berries act as backbone of those meaty flavour. Developped quickly into vanilla,coffee,mushroom, some spicy and violet afterwards. Well integrated on the nose. Medium light body, with a great and fresh acidity lingering till the finish. soft tannin which made you feel that without being overwhelming. long lasting juicy finish combined with acidity, smokiness and a subtle sweetness.

This is what I got in Casino for 21euros with the previous price like 29euros. By the way, this guy is the very best student of Henri Jayer and appeared in Les Gouttes de Dieu…. I wonder how did Casino persuade him to do so… I’m also expecting those other big names under the label of CASINO.