万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列149活动总结“澳洲酒也有陈年实力?帕克高分喝喝看”

上周日我们的俱乐部活动以盲品形式尝试了5款帕克高分澳洲酒。听到澳洲酒心里就生出轻视之心不想要看下去的,真心应该参加下我们的活动正正三观哦。

陆江老师带我们回顾了WA澳洲区的历年打分,虽说是新世界每一年气候变化不如波尔多勃艮第那么大。。。但是也挺大,历年打分差异还是很值得多留个心,买酒时多个参考。比如1998年份就是公认的好年份,各家评分机构都爆出过满分。而这次品鉴Fox Creek的珍藏西拉正是98年份,我们的盲品任务就是把它从两个2005年份、一个2004年份,和一个2006年份里跳出来——这些也都是评分很高的优秀年份。

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▲ 感谢WUYING同学带来的巧克力蛋糕

盲品过程就是个柯南小分队排队自己挖坑往里跳的过程啊,不细谈也罢。。。总之无愧于帕克99分的The Relic平衡完美,Kay Brothers甜美厚重,Zippy’s Block缓缓绽开饱满中有细腻和活跃酸度,蓝眼男孩有惊人的饱满浓郁,以及最后这款98年Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz,坚硬骨架又刚柔并济,确实给澳洲酒长脸!随后这几款酒也都进入了拍卖,这次大家很给面子的没有让拍卖官流着眼泪交付拍品,于是他欢快的加入了随后的火锅队伍。

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好吧就给锅说打个免费广告吧,先感谢火锅达人WUYING的推荐,跟着她吃绝对没错!然后比脸大。。。比两张脸加一起还大的毛肚。。。小伙伴们点了两份又追加了一份,赞不绝口。这是注定要集体增重啊,你们挂在嘴边的减肥呢!莫忘了前面还有个增重几率最高的七天假期在前面等着呢~好了,这里先预祝大家国庆节快乐~
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最后惯例附上陆江老师的品鉴记录,以供大家参考:

1. Two Hands Shiraz,Zippy’s Block
2005 | WA:99
黑色水果,矿物,入口微甘,香料,单宁细致完整骨架,重酒体,整体口感平衡,有点辛辣,酸度很活跃,回味长。很年轻的状态。

2. Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz
2006 | Alc:16% | WA:96
烘烤,咖啡豆,香料,黑色水果,微甘,重酒体极为饱满,单宁强劲,细致成熟,完整骨架,酸度中等,微甘,感觉到高酒精,但整体平衡,集中,回味长。回味烘烤苦感。很年轻的状态。

3. Kay Brothers Shiraz Block 6
2005 | Alc:16% | WA:97
黑巧克力,重酒体,咖啡豆,炖煮香料,饱满,入口微甘,单宁强劲细致,完整骨架,整体平衡,酸度中等,回味长。略有烟熏烘烤的回苦。很年轻的状态。

4. Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz
1998 | WA:96
皮革,少量煮甜菜,香料,中重酒体,柔滑,单宁重,细致,classic,酸度略活跃,回味长。杯底有薰衣草,百里香气息。像柔丝在骨架撑起的空间里摆动穿梭。已有些岁月积淀,但依旧有不弱的陈年实力。

5. Standish Shiraz/Viognier,The Relic
2004 | WA:99
动物皮革,香料,重酒体,重单宁,细致完整骨架,集中柔滑,酸度中等,骨架与酒体达成恰好的平衡,饱满不乏活力,回味长。比1、2、3款有略多一点的发展,不过依旧年轻,陈年实力强劲

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选葡萄酒同样非诚勿扰,满足这五条的就牵手带走吧

文:王智慧 | 葡萄酒在线

经常有葡萄酒消费者问起如何选酒,怎样能选到性价比还不错的酒,又可以避开假冒伪劣的陷阱。我们来聊聊如何从万千选择的市场中,找到靠谱的那款。

貌美

这是一个看脸的世界,请接受现实。你看妹子们的老公从都教授换到宋仲基,从靖王换到宁泽涛,反正只要是大长腿和桃花眼,她们就迅猛照单全收。再退一百步讲,即使没有“一顾倾人城,再顾倾人国”的绝世姿容,也至少要合眼缘,恰好是我这盘菜吧。总之,我们就是坦然又理直气壮的“我就是喜欢一切美丽事物”的颜控啊!

把这标准放到酒上来说,除了视觉效果上的酒标不要设计的太可怕太土气太让人想不明白之外呢,我认为一款酒的美貌集中体现在它的香气上,一款酒最先感染到你的部分。你也许会闻到玫瑰和紫罗兰,樱桃和桑葚,那是来自葡萄自身的香气;也许会闻到饼干和黄油,那是生产过程中产生的香气;还可能闻到蘑菇和皮革,那是缓慢陈年的过程中产生的香气;也许你根本闻不出是个什么味儿,但却确实的感受到,真的有好闻的香气,让人心生欢喜。

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健康

对于拼颜值底气不足的那些人,一定要多读书多运动做个从内而外的健康宝宝啊。体弱多病,必然气色晦暗,很不讨喜。而干净整洁,活力充沛,温暖阳光的人,会让你好想过去拉着ta的手,认识一下做个朋友。

选酒也要选健康的!葡萄酒的健康首先指的是葡萄的健康,未经严重的虫害天灾,茁壮成长,糖分和酚类物质都能达到良好的成熟度,酿出的酒才会成为一款有品质的酒。对的,我们说酒的健康体现在它的品质上,没有多余的添加物,酒精度、酸度、甜度都达到应有的标准,单宁细致,口感平衡。。。如果你觉得你的舌头没有这个能力做出这个判断怎么办?参考下一条。

家世清白,不是骗子

这条很重要!一般相亲的时候,妈妈们都喜欢给你安排知根知底儿的。因为现今世风日下,茫茫人海撞见骗子的几率比撞见真心人不知道高出几千倍。就算你生就火眼金睛,也很容易因心里缺爱而错寻渣男。

买酒也是一回事儿,你仔细阅读精美的宣传文案或者听了天花乱坠的推荐下了单,满怀期待流着口水一开瓶,发现喝到了好奇怪的东西,大概是崂山白花蛇草水的葡萄酒版。怎么办,讲个最简单的办法,如果就是记不住那些复杂的产区名、品种名,如果不具备分辨假冒伪劣能力,那就选择个安全的好出身吧。

具体来说,就是货品来源稳妥的品牌和一个靠谱的经销商!如果懒得出门去结识一个良心销售,就选择口碑还不错的酒商巨头们的的电商渠道(注意是大酒商而不是什么挂着几十个广告弹窗的奇怪小网站),比如酒仙网啊某东直营啊这些,这些从我们业内了解是比较可信的。他们的酒品来源靠谱,进口手续齐全,如果你进一步偷懒选择他们的主推直采单品就更稳妥,可以较好地避开假冒伪劣的暗雷。

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合拍

最近朋友圈有一篇转发很高的文章,叫《找个能玩到一起去的人在一起》,说的多好。最后真正要牵走的人啊,不一定多白多美多富,不一定有房有车有狗,但应该是个适合你的人。能陪你一起晨跑,一起喝酒,愿意安静不啰嗦,等你打完这轮boss再一起去吃饭的人,让你发自内心的喜欢。

而喝酒呢,一开始可能是会有些门槛的。部分名头响亮、出身显赫、价格不菲的葡萄酒,很可能带着有些消费者会排斥的的泥土、皮革和动物皮毛气味,也许还有强壮到如一击在胸的酒体和单宁——若你觉得不喜欢这些也是很正常的,勉强去说好其实也没有意义,还是把基础打好再去寻觅更高处的风景。就放掉自己的装Bigger之心,从全家老少皆宜的柔顺易饮,没那么涩的酒开始喝好了,顺从自己的内心,才能领略和享受到喝酒的快乐。

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能够细水长流

既然没活在偶像剧里,咱们还是老老实实把风景看透,细水长流吧。

最后拴住我的,还是对钱包伤害没那么凶残的,不用让我吃俩月咸菜的,我负担的起的酒啊,最后每日治愈我一次,每次药效24h的还是他们啊。我讲的太委婉?好吧,老板,我对酒是真爱,拜托卖便宜点啊。

还是有点晕吗,那我们举个例子来分析一下,什么样的酒能符合以上五点呢?

比如前面提到的酒仙网,他们前段时间发布的单品丁戈树(Tingle Trees)吧, 什么,你只听过lemon tree?不要这么文艺好不好,让我们顺着上面这五条分析一下,这个顶着大龄男文艺青年名字的酒咋就成网红啦?

01 貌美
澳大利亚的葡萄酒,新世界你知道的,标志性的热情奔放、新鲜撩人的果香分分钟攻克你。澳洲重型瓶和白银质感的酒标,让你觉着带它回家,或是聚会晚餐都能拿得出手。

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02+03 出身+健康
这俩放一起说吧。它是经典产区南澳的的经典品种赤霞珠(大红大紫的奔富的主力精品酒就是来自于南澳)。这种大电商的大单品,是可以踏实买的。别不服气啊,实事求是的说,食品安全领域是近年来最受关注的话题之一,从今年的315晚会可看出政府投注在食品领域的打击力度已越来越大。在竞争激烈的市场里,众目睽睽之下,酒业巨头怎么敢拿大单品玩猫腻啦。

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▲ 一生一定要去一次的南澳

04 合拍
前面说选日常酒就这几个标准么,酒体柔顺,果香诱人,口感平衡,新鲜甜美——这里说的甜美不是说它残糖高,而是单宁成熟度好、果香新鲜而形成果汁一般的甜美感,让人好难拒绝。

小编我和同事们为了靠谱举例,还特意下单订了丁戈树2014,我们的品鉴记录:“暗紫红色,有着明显黑莓等黑色水果气息,还透出西餐香料和一丝烟叶的味道;中等酒体,入口微甜平顺,口中均匀分布的细柔单宁涩感,就算平时不喝葡萄酒的朋友也能轻松接受,口感活跃平衡,回味中有微苦的咖啡味道。”

无论如何,口感是王道。总说葡萄酒不好喝,不适合你的人,必然只是没碰到合适的酒,这种大众情人款,倒是可以考虑给个机会。

图片 4

05 价格
这款酒我们下单时促销价为99元/瓶,相对品质来说,这个价格是相当和谐的。。。让穷人小编觉得这个世界又开始对我温柔相待了!

最后强迫症的小编我实在忍不住不跟你解释一下这个文青名字“丁戈树”咋来的。这是西南澳洲的特色树种,高可达75m,寿命能超过400岁,即便历经风雨,和澳洲常见的山火,经常留下树干中巨大的空洞,依然屹立不倒,当地人称它为爱之树。

图片 3

▲ 丁戈树

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澳大利亚葡萄酒大师班记录

 

图文:陆江(Maxime LU)

 

澳大利亚葡萄酒近几年一直在中国市场稳居进口葡萄酒第二的位置(第一是法国)。

随着中澳自由贸易协定的签署,澳洲葡萄酒关税在四年内降为零。而这也激励了市场,在过去的一年(2015.4-2016.3),中国以出口额64%的增幅首次成为,仅次于美国的澳大利亚葡萄酒第二大海外市场。这和以澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局为代表的推广机构们在中国市场上的不懈努力,密不可分。尤其是每年不少场次的各类推广活动。

而刚刚过去的四月,澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局组织的年度路演就是各类推广活动的重中之重。而我也应邀参加了路演第一站,上海的大师班和酒展。

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提到这个大师班,光看酒单就知道澳洲人的诚意和大师班的分量,都是星光熠熠的大名庄顶尖之作,不乏像奔富葛兰许这样的澳洲顶级旗舰Fine wine。主讲的是兰顿分级(Langton’s Classification)的联合创始人,著名的葡萄酒大师Andrew Caillard MW。

提到兰顿,要简单介绍一下,兰顿是澳洲规模最大的葡萄酒拍卖行,在过去的25年里,兰顿在澳洲二手交易市场中有着绝对的领先地位。 成立于1988年,总计拥有超过5000位的澳大利亚本国以及国际买家客户,每年通过拍卖提供超过120000批次的标的。兰顿已是整个澳大利亚精品葡萄酒市场的标杆。

另外,还有兰顿发布的【兰顿澳大利亚葡萄酒的分级体系-Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine】,最早是1990年发布第一版。这个体系是高度有影响力的,在最具有收藏价值的澳洲葡萄酒领域,是被国际上广泛认可的分级体系。

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Andrew Caillard作为这个分级体系的联合创始人,在现场介绍了这一体系的最新分级概况。

体系分三级:

Exceptional至尊级

最受追捧的葡萄酒,可谓澳大利亚市场的“一级庄葡萄酒”(最新一期共21款酒)。

Outstanding杰出级

澳大利亚葡萄酒质量的标杆之作,极受市场欢迎的葡萄酒(最新一期共53款酒)。

Excellent优秀级

在品质与市场需求量上均表现优异的葡萄酒(最新一期共65款酒)。

Andrew 还简单介绍了澳洲葡萄酒历史:

1788年开始就有移民带来葡萄藤,并开始种植葡萄。自1815年拿破仑滑铁卢战役后,葡萄藤开始规模引进澳洲,最早19世纪20年代是在Tasmania开始葡萄种植。1825年新南威尔士,1829年西澳,1834年维多利亚州,1837年南澳,1848年昆士兰州。1855年新南威尔士参加巴黎世博会,获得不少奖项,酒也被法国国王和英国女王收藏。

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葡萄酒大师班品鉴会记录(by 陆江):

Mc William‘s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Hunter Valley Semillon 2007(早采),Andrew说这款酒有50年的陈年实力。

新鲜,还有少量气泡,苹果,杏,少量蜂蜡,还能捕捉到凡士林和火石气息,重酒体,集中圆润,酸度极为强劲,贯穿,锋芒很露的状态,强大,可以经历很长时间陈年的打磨,回味悠长。

Yeringberg Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010(2万瓶产量)

黑莓,皮革,一丝动物皮毛,甘草,黑巧克力,中重酒体,集中度不错,单宁强,但细致优雅,完整骨架和酒体很好集成,酸度中强,活跃,纯净,回味长。

Petaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012

黑莓,黑巧克力,甘草,香料,细致的香气,中重酒体,酸度中强,单宁强但细致,收敛感明显,完整结构,回味长。

St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

黑醋栗,香料,桉树叶,重酒体,单宁强,收敛,天鹅绒般单宁比较厚实,细致,酸度中强,回味长。

Howard Park Abercrombie Margaret River and Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

黑莓,甜美气息,甘草,黑巧克力,辛香,一丝咖啡豆,重酒体,集中,单宁有力,完整结构,酸度中强,细致,很活跃,回味长。

Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011

檀香,香料,果味,重酒体,酸度中强活跃,单宁强,收敛明显,很干,回味长,感觉还比较封闭。

D’arenberg Dead Arm Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2012

香料,黑莓,皮革,重酒体,单宁强,厚实,收敛,酸度中强活跃,回味长,有烟熏和咖啡豆气息,一丝太妃糖。

Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz Nagambie lakes 2006

香料,黑莓,黑巧克力,烟草,重酒体,酸度中等略强,单宁强,细致,完整结构,回味长。

Dalwhinnie The Eagle Shiraz Pyrenees 2003

皮革,香料,烟草明显,重酒体,单宁强细腻,集中度很好,酸度中等略强,如丝绒般柔滑的口感,平衡,集成很好,回味长,后段酸度明显激活口感。

St Hallett Old Block Shiraz 2012 Barossa

香料,烟叶,黑莓,黑巧克力,重酒体,单宁强厚实,集中,酸度中强活跃,回味长,略有点封闭。

Langmeil Freedom Shiraz Barossa Valley 2009(1843年的低产老藤,Ancestor)

果味,香料,烘烤,重酒体,单宁强,收敛,酸度中强,活跃,复杂,有层次感,回味长。

Hardy‘s Eileen Hardy shiraz 2012 Mclaren Vale

烟叶,香料,檀香,重酒体,单宁强收敛厚实,活跃酸度,后段略微有点平坦,回味长,烟熏回味。

Penfolds grange shiraz 2009 South Australia

檀香,黑李子,果味明显,黑巧克力,重酒体,饱满集中,酸度中强,活跃,单宁有力,完整庞大的结构,柔滑细致,回味长,有一丝太妃糖气息。还有很强陈年潜力。

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IMG_20160415_103115

 

Australian Wines and the Chinese Market

 

Text & Photo by Maxime LU

The decade-long negotiations between China and Australia over the free trade agreement finally concluded in triumphant success on 17 June, 2015. The China-Australia Free Trade Agreement (ChAFTA) was signed in Canberra, Australia by government representatives of the two countries. Later, schedules of tariff reduction commitments for a range of products, including wine in the next five years were released. Under the ChAFTA, the tariff on Australian wine imports will reduce from a base rate of 14% to 11.2% in year one, 8.4% in year two, 5.6% in year three, and 2.8% in year four. The final abolishment of the tariff is expected to come in 2019. Australia has been under tremendous economic pressure in recent years. Its high welfare payments, among other causes, have resulted in heavy fiscal deficit. Meanwhile, Australia is experiencing price drops of its major exports such as iron ore. In light of the situation, the Australian government has been working on promising products in other areas, with wine being one of the key growth points for the Australian economy.

 

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The Australian wine industry dates back to 1788. Since then, the country has grown to be a leading producer in the New World of Wine with comprehensive competitiveness. I have visited major wine regions such as the Western Australia, Southern Australia and Victoria. Though my trips haven’t yet covered New South Wales and Tasmania, Australia’s unique viticulture advantages have already left a deep impression on me. The great diversity and outstanding quality guarantee of Australian wines are a combined result of its geographic location (standalone continent), strict environmental protection measures, the concept of sustainability, its complex terroir, openness of the industry, professional talent training organizations (represented by the University of Adelaide) and its R&D centers for wine technologies. Australia offers a wide range of great wine options for daily or individualized consumption. In the international wine market, the Australian wine has become widely recognized.
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Australia is the world’s fifth largest wine exporter. According to the latest statistics released by Wine Australia, in the 12 months to 30 June, 2015, the value of Australian wine exports rose 5 per cent to A$1.89 billion, and its volume rose 4 per cent to 720 million liters. This is the first time the value of wine exports has increased on a financial year basis since 2006/07. The export volume is also the highest since 2010/11. Australia’s top five export countries take up 72% of the total wine export value, namely the U.S. (down 7.9 per cent to A$415 million), the UK (down 1.5 per cent to A$369 million), Mainland China (up 32.1 per cent to A$280 million), Canada (down 0.7 per cent to A$182 million) and Hong Kong (up 28.4 per cent to A$112 million). The Chinese market has experienced the strongest growth. Australia’s middle range and premium wines (above A$7.50/liter) are doing quite well in China, the number one destination for Australian wine exports. During the same period, Australian wine has remained as the second top seller in China’s import wine market with sales of US$356 million (increase of 59%), which is 1.44 times higher than that of Chile in the third place.
Statistics reveal that Australia cannot afford to ignore the potentials and importance of the Chinese market. To better understand how Australian wine exports are developing in China, we shall take a look at the Figure “Bottled exports to China by price points”, which shows volume developments of bottled exports at two different price points.
In 2005/06, China’s tariffs on imported wine have been substantially reduced. Meanwhile, increasingly active international communications and the rising national income have contributed to a growing demand for imported wines, as more and more Chinese people took a liking to wine drinking on various occasions. In the period from 2005/6 to 2008/9, Australia wine exports to China have steadied its volume at a stable growth rate. However, the total annual volume remained insignificant due to insufficient marketing efforts.
The global financial crisis in 2008/09 has dragged the Australian dollar to Chinese Yuan Renminbi exchange rate down to a low point. Australian wines thus have become quite cost efficient. At the same time, China has entered a boom of growth in the wine market. The government’s 4-trillion infrastructure investment (to counteract the effects of financial crisis) has led to excess of liquidity, which not only vitalized China’s wine market, but also increased the volume of low-end Australian wine imports by China. However, these factors didn’t benefit the middle range and premium Australian wines, as Bordeaux wine was an absolute market dominator in the segment.
The Australian dollar exchange rate rebounded in 2010/2011. Wine dealers were struggling with excessive stock as a result of rushing into the market in the previous period. The market demand for low-end Australian wines slowed down. The Chinese government has adopted tightened economic policies, resulting in a declining premium wine market led by Bordeaux wines.
Starting in 2010/2011, the Australian government started to target more resources to the Chinese wine market. Wine Australia has clearly reinforced its promotional efforts on bringing Australian wines to China. A series of effective promotional measures were introduced, such as inviting Chinese wine specialists, media and kol (key opinion leaders) to Australian wine regions, and implementing A+ Australian Wine School programs in China. Australian wine’s image of quality and diversity started to take root in the Chinese market. The market responded by a remarkable increase of sales for A$5/liter (export price) Australian wines.
In the second half of 2012 to 2013, the Chinese government launched an anti-corruption campaign to curb the “three public expenses” (expenses on vehicles, receptions and overseas trips). These activities sent a great blow to the Chinese wine market that relied heavily on public expenses and institutional consumption. Above A$5/liter Australian wines were also affected by the campaign, whereas low-end segment wines were not. By then, the Chinese wine market began transferring its focus to the segment of individual consumption.
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In light of the latest market development, Wine Australia has mobilized relevant industry players to launch a series of marketing activities. For example, grape harvest tours to Australia were organized. Australia actively participated in the leading ProWine China and many other influential wine trade fairs on the Chinese mainland. Other marketing activities include wine tasting roadshows in various key Chinese cities, the Wine Australia Annual Awards Ceremony recognizing outstanding promoters of the Australian wine as well as events for premium retail channels. Wine Australia is dedicated to promoting the quality and diversity of Australian wine. The organization regularly carries out A+ Australian Wine School programs for wine enthusiasts and consumers. It also organizes master classes and new media promotional activities.
It’s safe to say that Australia undoubtedly promoted itself in China with the most active, effective, innovative and influential efforts from 2010/11 to 2014/15. Therefore, Australian wine exports to China were able to quickly overcome the market downturn in the last fiscal year and remained in the second position after France with its outstanding 59% sales increase.
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Instead of practicing the existing approaches, Australia continued down the path of innovative marketing activities. Wine Australia is organizing a creative yet low-cost event called Thirsty Thursday Blind Tasting competition in various cities, showcasing the diversity and quality of Australian wine to industry specialists and kol.
The Australian Grape and Wine Authority (AGWA) came into being on 1 July, 2014 following the merger of Wine Australia Corporation and the Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation. The merger consolidates industry resources and structure so as to more efficiently and cost-effectively utilize funds from vineyards and wine growers for R&D, market development and wine promotion.
Besides Wine Australia, the industry also initiates other marketing events. The State Government of Victoria invited a large number of Chinese wine importers and media to the local sub-regions. The Margaret River wine region to the south of Western Australia organized wine with cuisine events in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Chengdu. In the meantime, Australian vineyards actively participate in marketing events of wine importers. Nearly half of the participants at wine tasting events or dinners that I attended in Beijing were Australian vineyards.
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The latest activities of the Australian wine industry in China are also noteworthy. The Australian Retail leader Woolworths Liquor Group (WLG) has announced that it has acquired China-based wine and drinks distributor Summergate as part of its China strategy. TWE has also started to shift from relying on importers to building up its own direct distribution channels.
It can be expected that, in the near future, more Australian wine brands will appear in the Chinese market, together with larger presence of Australian investments and talents.
– LU Jiang, WineOnline.CN –