贺兰山葡萄酒与进口酒同值盲品
Event summary: 2009.Dec 13 Wineonline wine club series 52, Same valued Blind tasting of Helanshan wine and imported wine
陆江(Maxime LU)/万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部
国产酒一直以来是低性价比而著称,不过近年来有部分国产酒通过国际合作和理念更新,有了显著的进步,尤其一些中西部产区, 崛起势头甚为迅猛.
这次我们俱乐部在市场上购得数款同值国外选手,与最近风头正劲的贺兰山葡萄酒进行了一场同值盲品。
特别感谢中国葡萄酒资讯网和保乐力加(中国)贸易有限公司为这次活动赞助国产葡萄酒样本.
同值盲品比较并不是很深奥的品酒,只是根据个人喜好的简单排序,但过程中能直观的感受差异和风格,是有趣的品酒经历. 当然还是难得了解国产酒进步实力的好机会.
Domestic wine has always been referred to lesser cost-effective wine. However,part of domestic wine have made remarkable progress in recent years through international cooperationand concept updating.Especially some wine-producing region in the middle west gather momentum rapitly.
This time our club purchased same priced imported wine for blind tasting with Helanshan wine.
Thanks a lot for twww.wines-info.com and Pernod Ricard (China) Trading Co. Ltd.sponsoring domestic wine for this event.
Same Valued Wine tasting is not profound.It’s just a simple ranking by personal preference,but you may feel the difference and style during the process which is an interesting experience.,and also a good opportunity to understand domestic wine’s progress and strength.
这次我们俱乐部购买的比较酒样葡萄品种在霞多丽、雷司令、赤霞珠这三种品种范围,对比样酒每组2款,价格范围按照下方贺兰山产品上下各浮动20.00 RMB(雷司令略微超限), 一共品尝9款. 参加的18人,盲品后参加喜好投票。
We purchased three imported wine with three varieties,including Chardonnay, Riesling and Caberner Sauvignon.Each group has two types of wine with the price between 20.00 RMB highter or lower than Helanshan wine.(The price of Riesling is a little higher)
In this session,18 people attended this blind tasting with 9 types of wine, and took part in preferential voting .
A组:经典级霞多丽Classic Chardonnay ,市场零售价78.00/瓶
B组:特选级雷司令 Premium Riesling,市场零售价118.00/瓶
C组:特选级赤霞珠 Premium Cabernet Sauvignon,市场零售价118.00/瓶
Group A:Classic Chardonnay ,market price 78.00 RMB/bottle
Group B:Premium Riesling,market price 118.00 RMB/bottle
Group C:Premium Cabernet Sauvignon,market price 118.00 RMB/bottle
9款的全家福(从左到右:3款霞多丽,3款雷司令,3款赤霞珠,编号为1~9)
9 types of wine( from left to right:3 types of Chardonnay,3 types of Riesling,3 types of Cabernet Sauvignon,No.1~9)
1.贺兰山经典级霞多丽Classic Chardonnay2008 ,市场零售价78.00元/瓶
水白微黄绿色;桔类、香瓜和菠萝的气息散出;入口微甜,中等酒体,回味略有热感;回味中等偏短。
2.智利SUNRISE的夏多内2007,购价:98元/瓶
淡黄绿色;矿物、热带水果、杏仁和熟苹果味道;圆润,中等酒体,平衡一般,酸度略欠;回味中等偏短。
3.澳洲杰卡斯Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay 2008,购价:96元/瓶
淡黄绿色(比第二款的颜色略深);有着植物性香气,还有柚子、青苹果的气息,还透出点燧石的味道;入口微甜,中等酒体, 略有回苦;中等回味。
4.Michel Schneider,Riesling Classic 2007, Pfalz, 购价:86元/瓶
淡黄绿色;散出淡淡油质气息,香气较弱,还有些水果硬糖的味道;微甜,松散,平衡一般;回味短,简单。
5.Bernhard & Reibel,Riesling,Coteaux du Haut Koenigsbourg 2003,Alsace, 购价:138元/瓶
深禾杆黄;黄油、矿物主导的气息;圆润,还好的平衡,中等酒体,略散;回味中等,疲态已显,青春不在。
6.贺兰山特选级雷司令 Premium Riesling 2008,市场零售价:118.00/瓶
水白色带着微微的黄绿光晕;有着香瓜、白花还有荔枝的芬芳;清冽口感,松散简单,平衡一般,有一定酸度支撑,略回热;回味短。
7.澳洲杰卡斯Jacob’s Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2006,购价:96元/瓶
深宝石红;典型黑醋栗果香主导,还能捕捉到山楂花、焦糖和李子干的气息;中轻酒体,单宁柔和,平衡;回味较短,有中药余味。
8.贺兰山特选级赤霞珠 Premium Cabernet Sauvignon2008,市场零售价:118.00/瓶
深紫红色;有着李子干、丁香和覆盆子气息,间或茴香酒的味道;单宁柔和,易饮,酒体中轻,平衡一般,略有回热;回味短。
9.Cousino Macule Cabernet Sauvignon 2006,购价:88.00/瓶
樱桃红带着微微的橘类色调;有些陈皮、甘草和山楂花的气息;中等酒体, 单宁柔和有一定力度,后段消散偏空,回热;回味中短。
1.Helanshan Classic Chardonnay2008 ,market price 78.00 RMB/bottle
Pale with light yellow-green colour;orange,melon and pineapple aromas;slightly sweet, medium bodied;medium short finish with a little heat.
2.SUNRISE Chardonnay 2007,purchased price:98.00 RMB/bottle
Light yellow-green colour;mineral,tropical fruit,almond and ripening apple noses;round,medium bodied,not well balanced with less acidity;medium short finish.
3.Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay 2008,purchased price:96.00 RMB/bottle
Light yellow-green colour (deeper than the second one); plant based aromas along grapefruit and green apple,with touches of flint;slightly sweet, medium bodied, slightly bitter aftertaste; medium finish.
4.Michel Schneider,Riesling Classic 2007, Pfalz, purchased price:86.00 RMB/bottle
Light yellow-green colour; lack of aromas with touches of vaseline,along fruit hard candy;slightly sweet,loose,not well balanced;short finish,simple.
5.Bernhard & Reibel,Riesling,Coteaux du Haut Koenigsbourg 2003,Alsace, purchased price:138.00 RMB/bottle
Deep staw yellow;butter and mineral predominant on the nose; round,average balance,medium bodied,slightly loose;medium finish,overpeak.
6.Helanshan Premium Riesling 2008,market price:118.00 RMB/bottle
Pale with yellow-green hue;aromas of melon,white flower and litchi;fresh taste,loose and simple,not well balanced with acidity to some degree;short finish with a little heat.
7.Jacob’s Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2006,purchased price:96.00 RMB/bottle
Deep ruby colour; predominant aroma of blackcurrant with a hint of hawthorn flowers,caramel and dried plum;medium-light bodied ,soft tannin,well balanced;slightly short finish,aftertaste of Chinese medecine.
8.Helanshan Premium Cabernet Sauvignon2008,market price:118.00 RMB/bottle
Deep purple colour; predominant aroma of dried plum,clove and raspberry with a hint of anisette;soft tannin,easy to drink,medium-light bodied,not well balanced;short finish with a little heat.
9.Cousino Macule Cabernet Sauvignon 2006,purchased price:88.00 RMB/bottle
Cherry with light orange colour;dried orange peel,liquorice and hawthorn flowers;medium bodied,soft yet powerful tannin with less persistance;medium short finish with heat.
选择第3和第7款为对比选手,是因为两者为“贺兰山”的同门师兄,都为保乐力加集团旗下的新世界量产酒,这样也可以多些戏剧性的效果。
投票人数18人,俱乐部顾问陆江负责开瓶和盲品点评,不计入投票。
A组Chardonnay:第1~3款,投票结果:第一款-4票;第二款-9票;第三款-5票。虽然在盲品投票中贺兰山这款Chardonnay排在末尾,作为较低的市场价和综合实力,个人认为性价比还是过得去。 其它两款都是来自新世界的公认的高性价比产品,尤其智利产品更受大家青睐,
B组Riesling:第4~6款,投票结果:第四款-9票;第五款-5票;第六款-4票 。
这组的投票结果有点出乎意料. 第四款是简单易饮的德国低价雷司令, 力夺半数投票; 而第五款的选择其实不具有代表性,大部分年轻的Alsace雷司令在大陆的零售价都不会那么便宜,说实话这是款风韵正逝的法国雷司令,所以打折价能落入要求区间内,得票低 倒是可以理解。第六款贺兰山雷司令虽然也是简单酒,可年轻颇有青春之气, 受欢迎程度那么低,也有些小意外.
C组Cabernet Sauvignon:第7~9款,投票结果:第七款-2票;第八款-8票;第九款-8票
这组结果出来后, 因为第七款的得票过低, 询问大家投票缘由.回答大致是由于喝过太多类似的新世界标准赤霞珠,而其它两款虽也是量产酒,但相对有些自己的特色.贺兰山在本轮赤霞珠投票中终于扬眉吐气.
综合结果和比较品鉴后,我们还是可以看到一些国产葡萄酒,在逐渐提升竞争力。以前在100元左右价位段,国产酒基本没有几款品质实力选手。而现在,越来越多的本地葡萄酒开始在品质上向进口产品发起挑战,虽然还没形成气候,但是个可喜的现象。
We compared No.3 and No.7,because they are both Helanshan wine which are New World mass-produced wine under Pernod Ricard Group.It can also add more dramatic effect.
18 people participated voting,except wine advisor Lu jiang,who is responsible for wine opening and comment.
Group A Chardonnay:No.1~3, result: No.1 – 4 votes; No.2 – 9 votes;No.3 – 5 votes
Although Helanshan Chardonnay received the least vote, personally i think its cost-effective is not bad with comparatively low maket price and comprehensive strength.The other two wines are recognized as high cost-effective product from New World, especially Chilian wine won the highest favour.
Group B Riesling:No.4~6, result: No.4 – 9 votes; No.5 – 5 votes; No.6 – 4 votes
The voting resuilt of this group is unexpected. Wine No.4 is a cheap German Riesling which is easy to drink, but recerived half of the vote.
Wine No.5 is actually not typical,for most young Alsace Riesling’s market price in the mainland China is not as cheap as this one,and this French Riesling is over peak,so the discounted price falls into our range.The lesser vote is understanable.
Wine No.6 Helanshan Riesling is simple but young, and didn’t gain much favour which is unexpected.
Group C Cabernet Sauvignon:No.7~9, result: No.7 – 2 votes; No.8 – 8 votes; No.9 – 8 votes
The vote of wine No.4 is too lesser, and the answer for it is that they have tasted too much similar New World standard Caberner Sauvignon,and the other two mass-producted wines have their own style.Helanshan finally gained favour in this round of Caberner Sauvignon.
After comprehensive comparision and comparative tasting, we found that some domestic wine are gradually improving their competitive advantages.Before now, there are few domestic wine priced around 100 RMB with good quality. But now we are pleased to note that more and more domestic wine challenge imported wine in terms of quality,although they are just at the begainning stage.