谨慎投资葡萄酒庄

谨慎投资葡萄酒庄

(2011年7月为酒尚杂志撰稿)

陆江(Maxime LU)/万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部 

葡萄酒投资近年来在国内极为火热,而最近感觉国内一些财团对葡萄酒庄投资的兴趣高涨。周遭也在紧密配合,有酒庄投资说明会,有酒庄出售信息,尤其还有各类收购成功或是意向的资讯。 

自2008年起中国买家成功的波尔多酒庄收购案例已经至少5起,其中今年2011年上半年就有2起。

1. 2008年青岛龙海集团-拉图拉甘酒庄(Latour-Leguens)

2. 2009年中国香港A&A国际公司 – 黎塞留酒庄(Richelieu)

3. 2010年某内地亿万富豪-拉菲特酒庄(Chenu Lafitte)

4. 2011年2月中粮集团-维奥酒庄(Chateau de Viaud)

5. 2011年3月华裔珠宝商沈东军-乐朗酒庄(Laulan Ducos)

最近几个月传闻的光明食品并购国际酒业巨头澳洲的Treasury Wine,虽然被光明食品最终否认。但据可靠消息,澳洲Treasury Wine的确有在大陆寻找财团并购,只是光明食品不太符合他们的目标,所以没有成功。这件事在业内乃至国际酒界都引起轰动。 

而波尔多2011年7月10日传来的消息又一次刺激到国内某些财团的神经,波尔多的著名的二等庄力士金酒庄(Chateau Lascombes)被正式转让,之前甚至有猜测认为有中国财团介入,但消息出来后是法国MACSF保险集团以2亿欧元买下此庄(包括5千万欧元的库存)。而前东家美国的Colony Capital在2001年购买时仅支付了5千万欧元,看起来还是获得较好收益。 

可事实上需要特别注意,酒庄收购投资,并不是象看起来那么美好。酒庄购买虽然是一锤子买卖,可酒庄通常是长线投资,除初期投入,还有较多持久的后续投入,人力物力技术改良。 还是以力士金酒庄投资为例,Colony Capital最初购买价虽为5千万欧元,可为了发展提升,后续又投入3千5百万欧元。所以这笔长达十年的酒庄投资收益其实并没有那么诱人。当然酒庄投资还要面对各类自然和市场风险,汇率波动和经济危机,还有复杂的当地国相关法律。 

另外在法国那些市场表现良好的实力名庄基本很难买到,有非经济因素的门槛和高昂的价格。国内财团能买到的多为相对市场表现平庸甚至困难的酒庄。所以投资酒庄一定要有足够谨慎,和充分的前期准备,远期的综合规划,无论缺少那一环都会让酒庄投资变为鸡肋,甚至包袱。 

还要提一下酒庄投资的另一类,投资移民的华人,由于移民政策要求投资某些产业,于是有些华裔移民仅凭自己的喜好和简单判断,将投资投放在移民目的国的酒庄上,这点也要特别小心。因为现在很多华人移民主要目的国澳洲、加拿大、新西兰、美国的葡萄酒销售很不乐观,虽然可以把酒销回到看起来很强大的中国市场,可对于缺乏国内葡萄酒市场资源的华人移民来说,推广的难度也是不小,所以也需谨慎从事。

Domaine Philippe Charlopin under the label of CASINO

Sylvia Chen 陈微然

It was really a coincidence that I found Domaine Philippe Charlopin in the supermarket. At first, I was fairly excited by the price which only around 20euros. Later, I was curious because I saw plenty of other big names with the label of the same pattern.

It’s incredible that we could find this kind of wine in the French supermarket.  I only knew it afterwards that Casino associated with altogether 10 big names and present a CLUB DES SOMMELIERS GRANDES RÉSERVES series for the annual wine festival (Foire au x vins). They are  Pichon Baron in Pauillac, Suduiraut in Sauternes, Dufort-Vivens in Margaux, Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac Leognan and St-Emilion grand cru, Michel Chapoutier in St Joseph, Georges Duboeuf in moulin à vent , René Monnier in  beaune 1er cru and meursaultPhilippe Charlopin in Gevery-chambertin, Galoupet et Vannières in Provence.

Domaine Philippe Charlopin, Gevery-Charmbertin, 2008

Soybean sauce and hint of oxidation at first made me think it had a poor storage situation.

Yet, after 20mins, it developped into meaty and oily, that is a very complex nose which made you feel their is plenty of berries act as backbone of those meaty flavour. Developped quickly into vanilla,coffee,mushroom, some spicy and violet afterwards. Well integrated on the nose. Medium light body, with a great and fresh acidity lingering till the finish. soft tannin which made you feel that without being overwhelming. long lasting juicy finish combined with acidity, smokiness and a subtle sweetness.

This is what I got in Casino for 21euros with the previous price like 29euros. By the way, this guy is the very best student of Henri Jayer and appeared in Les Gouttes de Dieu…. I wonder how did Casino persuade him to do so… I’m also expecting those other big names under the label of CASINO.