Enlightment brought to us by Helan Mountain Foothill District Development Summit Forum

Written By Maxime Lu            Edited by Serien Wang

On behalf of WINEONLINE.CN, I participated in Ningxia Helan Mountain Foothill District Development Summit Forum this afternoon, which is one of the many meetings organized by Chengdu Wine Fair: China’s biggest annual wine expo.

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Joy and mean jokes interspersed in multilateral dialogues and all the speeches given by officials and experts. Anyway the overall keynote here is positive without any doubts.

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The speech given by governor of Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region reveals their developed awareness of wine industry and their genuinely hopes to promote it. “Terroir ” of Ningxia is relatively good, but the true development impetus of the industry will be government guidance. Although problems can still be found in innovative mechanism of investment and in relevant support measures, Ningxia Helan Mountain foothill has become the best known Chinese wine region in the world (Situation is much more miserable for HL). Resources and capital are accumulated in this place.

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It is very important that many wineries have already realized that they should be quality-based and keep themselves on track with long term aspirations instead of getting anxious to achieve instant benefits. Accordingly, pricing in wineries in Ningxia become more and more reliable.

The way to promote traditional Baijiu brands cannot be applied to these wineries as they are in much smaller scale. But in fact many practitioner in Ningxia wine industry and even some so-called marketing experts still take for granted that they should copy marketing rules of Baijiu, and implement the strategy of so-called big brands.

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The right thing is to take the actual situation of Chinese market and unique characteristics of wine products into account before you devise any brand strategy. Again, I’d like to emphasize on the importance of quality. It is the quality that help Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars stir in the Paris tasting, and get opportunities to create high-end brand in the later stage.

More and more consumers choose imported wine with high cost effectiveness instead of famous domestic brand like Zhangyu. Actually big brand did see their declining in market share over the past few years. Just don’t underestimate the intelligence of consumers and their gradually widened vision.

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Chinese boutique wine tasting after three years 三年后的国产精品葡萄酒品鉴

Chinese boutique wine tasting after three years

三年后的国产精品葡萄酒品鉴

陈微然 Weiran CHEN

时隔三年,万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部再次举办中国葡萄酒品鉴会,本次活动酒款选用中国最具代表性的精品酒庄酒,几乎涵盖了所有中国葡萄酒产区,包括宁夏,山西,内蒙,河北,山东蓬莱,新疆,云南产区,基本可以代表国内本土种植酿造出产葡萄酒的最高水平。采用全部盲品的形式,避免先入为主的品牌观念影响结果。

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Wine 1

贺兰山干白葡萄酒 2010

葡萄品种:霞多丽

贺兰山这款霞多丽在国产白葡萄酒里面算是典型性非常强的,盲品当中辨识度很高。柠檬,柑橘类香气为主带着橙皮少许矿物质的香气,入口柔和,酸度不太突出,余韵中长。

Wine 2

香格里拉高原A2干白葡萄酒2011 

葡萄品种: 维戴尔,霞多丽混酿

果香并不明显,突出的是熏烤和少许橘子的味道,入口有甜感,酸度略显刺激。

Wine 3

盛唐干白葡萄酒2009

葡萄品种:长相思

淡淡的青椒,猕猴桃和黑醋栗花苞的味道,不如新西兰长相思那样浓郁,开放。入口有些平淡,少许清爽的酸度。

 

会员们对中国白葡萄酒的表现略有些失望。对第一款酒评价大家的分歧有些大,有人觉得平衡易饮,有人觉得平淡无味。最终盛唐干白葡萄酒位列第一,就最终结果来看,似乎大家还是更喜欢果香突出的白葡萄,对口感的要求反而并不会被作为第一需求。客观来说贺兰山的霞多丽葡萄酒总体平衡感做的最好,连续品尝过三年,品质也很稳定,期盼在树龄增长后,能够在保持现有平衡感的同时增加些复杂度。

Wine 4

汉森庄园干红葡萄酒 2008 

葡萄品种:赤霞珠,品丽珠,蛇龙珠混酿

青椒,李子等简单的果香,入口微甜,酸度中等,单宁略粗糙,余味有苦感

wine 5

马丁酒庄chateau martin (没有找到年份)

葡萄品种: 赤霞珠

以皮革和少许香料的香气为主导,偶尔能找到些龙眼干的气味。酒体中高,酸度中等,带着有些出挑的法国风格,单宁比上款柔和不少,相对紧实。

Wine 6

舒然酒庄 (没有找到年份)

葡萄品种:蛇龙珠

有点生青,带些中药般的苦感,香气不太愉悦。入口酒体有些轻飘,没什么味道,都是些中药似的苦感。

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Wine 7

银色高地 阙歌红葡萄酒 2011

葡萄品种:60%赤霞珠 20%品丽珠 20%蛇龙珠

浓郁的黑李子味,薄荷,黑巧克力,小红莓还带着少许花香,香气难得的宜人,入口微甜,成熟的果香,酸度活跃,单宁比较细致。

Wine 8

捣乱的波尔多酒

香气明显深邃许多,烟叶,黑色浆果,少许甜香料,但是后来出了很多米酒的味道。入口轻飘,单宁非常强悍,攻击性非常强。但是不太有骨架,酸度中等。

Wine 9

类人首 金牌橡木桶窖藏 2009 

葡萄品种:75%赤霞珠 25%梅洛

以浓郁的红色浆果味主导,甜美的熟樱桃味道尤其突出,中等酒体,酸度很活跃,单宁柔和宜人,非常愉悦的回味。

Wine 10

新疆新雅葡萄酒 2010 

葡萄品种:赤霞珠

黑巧克力,成熟的黑樱桃,李子,香气非常浓郁。入口非常柔和,但是没有骨架感,单宁有些攻击性。

Wine 11

怡园主席珍藏 2010 

葡萄品种:54%赤霞珠 40%梅洛 6%品丽珠

香气有些沉闷,除了少许烟熏味,其他似乎并没有展现。入口的表现却比香气好太多,顺口易饮,带着不俗的平衡感。三年当中多次遇到怡园主席珍藏,也许是没能等到最佳的饮用时机,香气表现都不太理想。

Wine 12

宁夏红沙坡头庄园2012

葡萄品种:蛇龙珠

浓郁的黑色浆果味,樱桃,辣椒,和宜人的橡木烘烤气息,少许甘草味,酒体丰满,单宁厚重而且相对柔和紧致。非常优质的一款国产酒,目前喝到表现最好的蛇龙珠。

Wine 13

加贝兰2011 

葡萄品种:赤霞珠

非常浓郁的香气,李子干,黑莓,少许橡木桶的馨香,入口柔和,酒体中重,口中带着许多烘烤,矿物的味道,酸度很活跃,

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Wine 14

贺兰山霄峰 2010 

葡萄品种:85% 赤霞珠 15%梅洛

带些苦感,烟熏,甘草,龙眼干李子干。入口柔顺,酒体丰满,单宁有厚重且有结构感。酸度活跃坚挺,余韵带着浓郁的果香。

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Wine 15

长城云漠酒庄

葡萄品种:波尔多混酿

浓郁的皮革味,烟熏,橡木香,甘草。很柔和,雅致的一款酒,酒体有些单薄,单宁中等,十分细致。其实总体感觉还是很平衡,只是后段衰败的比较快,酒体突然就散了。酒做的虎头蛇尾,实在有些可惜。

Wine 16

高原源酒庄Val Enchante 昂首天歌 2011

葡萄品种:赤霞珠

新鲜的蘑菇,李子,甘草的味道,入口十分顺滑,酸度活跃,果香也很充沛。这是一款非常容易让人亲近的葡萄酒,香气非常饱满,如果价位合适,倒是能作为一款家中常备的佐餐酒。

 

本次盲品会的前三甲分别是:

银色高地 阙歌红葡萄酒 2011

加贝兰 2011

贺兰山霄峰 2010 

 

在两年前曾经多次尝到银色高地这款葡萄酒,那时感触并不深,几乎没有留下太多的印象,回看之前的品酒笔记,描述当中还对酒中的生青和粗糙的单宁颇有微词。两年后的这次再度相遇,让我看到了一个简直焕然一新的阙歌。在争议声中成长的加贝兰一如既往的保持稳定高水准,也许过几年酒中的橡木桶味会更加柔和宜人。最近保持高曝光率的贺兰山霄峰也是实力不凡,整个的结构感做的非常好,在国产酒当中难得能见到将单宁做的柔中带刚的产品,饱满的酒体搭配坚挺的酸度,的确能够配得上他这个霸气的名字。

 

时隔三年的中国葡萄酒品鉴让人心中有些小感动,三年后的这一场品鉴所有酒样的健康率明显增强,仅仅出现了一款略有氧化的葡萄酒,比起三年前的活动以及一年前在勃艮第的中国酒品鉴实在好太多。活动当中也明显发现精品酒庄的不断壮大,不少精品酒庄在普通消费者中有一定的知名度。更多的精品酒庄也在不断涌现,每次接触中国酒时总能看到一些新的出品。国产酒庄也开始推出了不同定位的酒款,比如贺兰山优选和贺兰山霄峰,阙歌和高源原昂首天歌,目前来看产品的差异性还是非常明显。从去年到今年所接触的国产酒当中,越来越多的酒庄从包装到定位上都开始注重走中国路线,甚至开始注重产区当地的文化特色比如以岩画为契机命名的宁夏类人首酒庄。

 

很难想象国产酒在三年之内做出了这样的飞跃,希望越来越多来自世界的关注不会让整个产业心浮气躁。固然最终还是要做出特色和差异性,不过最希望的还是这些国产精品酒在近些年内能够一直保持酒质稳定,在国内国外都能有好口碑!