万达索菲特VIC餐厅brunch

万达索菲特VIC餐厅brunch

品鉴人/陆江-北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部2009-09-13


从中世纪末开始法国逐渐成为欧洲精致生活的引领者,尤其在美食方面,兼容并蓄,推陈出新,在色香味、酒食搭配乃至就餐环境,都发展到风格多样、尽善尽美。在西方餐饮界法式晚宴往往有着举足轻重的地位,不过近年在国内流行的颇为休闲的周日自助Brunch上法式餐厅也颇具特色,优雅细节可窥豹一斑。这次去的位于京城CBD核心区的万达索菲特大酒店6楼的国际美食餐厅VIC应该算是其典型代表。

VIC餐厅周日自助Brunch兼顾不同地域风格的饮食,无论法式、日式、东南亚、印度、意式、川粤鲁等皆有涵盖。不过综合各类风格实力而言,还是法式明显独占鳌头。周日自助Brunch上Le Pre Lenotre法餐厅厨师长Yannick Ehrsam在现场亲自料理,这对传统品质略逊的自助餐水准有了质的提升。说到Le Pre Lenotre法餐厅,他是法国拥有著名米其林三星餐厅Le Pre Catelan的Lenotre集团全力支持的在华法餐厅,经常有米其林星级厨师轮值掌勺,Yannick Ehrsam就是其中一位,11月底又将有一位米其林二星餐厅厨师到任。

餐厅菜式的多样性还是不错, 给了来客更多个性选择,法国进口生蚝,越南龙虾数吃,三文鱼生鱼片,现煎的牛排、肥鹅肝,马来咖喱鸡、印度米饭、日本寿司、中式煎饺、星洲炒米粉、粤式叉烧肉、北京烤鸭甚至还有四川鱼香肉丝,现场烤灸的小羊腿,现烤的意大利比萨,还有数款中式糖水。名副其实的国际美食汇!不过虽然印度厨师、香港厨师、鲁菜厨师也都在场料理,不过菜品质素的确要逊法式一筹。
我品试了著名的法国布根底地区特色的红酒焖鸡(Coq au vin),葡萄酒香和其它香料已融合入味,虽然火候和肉质略逊,可作为自助的焖锅炖菜,能感受到该菜式的典型风格亦属过得去。

法餐厅厨师长亲自料理的清炒海虹(Moule),其实这应该算是比利时特色,不过却是在法国很受欢迎的一道菜式。作为实力厨师,烹制的火候把握比较精准,鲜嫩美味,配料也是恰当,既去了海腥,又很好的保留了鲜香自然的原味。和搭配的佐餐香槟风格契合,相互提携。

说到自助Brunch用酒,这也是餐厅特色之一。由于菜式风格多样,VIC餐厅除日常葡萄酒外还推荐选用了一款搭菜应用广泛且又能最好诠释法国精致饮食理念的法国香槟酒-巴黎之花(Perrier Jouet Grand Brut)香槟,颇具口碑实力的酒款,令人意外惊喜。

VIC餐厅的奶酪也是其保留特色之一,每次都有来自法国的12到16种,最多到18种新鲜奶酪呈献给来客。应该是在大陆能吃到奶酪种类最多的餐厅之一,也是奶酪爱好者的天堂。

另外特别值得圈点的是甜点部分,虽然是自助餐,可甜点基本都是Le Pre Lenotre法餐厅的资深甜点师精心制作,而且这里的甜点师都是具有丰富的经验,同时又去法国Lenotre接受3个月专业甜点培训。水准不容小觑。品试了推荐的水果塔,精致造型,点缀着几枚新鲜浆果,红醋栗、草莓等,清新的酸甜果味很好地平衡了塔皮的甜腻口感,酥软细腻,回味悠长。

除众多的常规甜点品种外,巧克力喷泉是特色,尤其每个月的最后一个周日是粉色主题,巧克力喷泉也会换成粉色;还有就是包括棉花糖冰激淋等品种在内的9款冰激淋。其中品尝过的玫瑰冰激淋颇具特色,芬芳红玫瑰花瓣弥漫的气息,恰当的甜美和细腻的冰霜得到很好的口感协调,是一款凸现法式浪漫的情侣甜品。

下面还要特别提到Macaron,它是法式甜点的最典型品种之一,也是公认的考验甜点师水准的测试品种,VIC餐厅准备了数款Macaron,凭心而论颇具功底。尝试了果酱夹心Macaron,光滑表面如蛋壳一般,入口酥脆,内心却是温软感受,层次多样,甜香四溢。

水果除应季的5、6款时令果品外,还有红毛丹、石榴、李子甚至“水果皇后”- 山竹。随着季节变换还会不断更新品种。

用餐环境也是下了功夫,餐厅中柱都以摆放各式食材和配料作为装饰物,典雅明快的色调以及窗明几净的环境和谐结合,配上柔和适当的光线,使整体环境多了些温馨惬意的氛围。菜品摆盘配色能较好地融合进整个环境。尤其入口处的龙虾和前菜摆盘,美轮美奂,有着点睛之意。

通过诸如、餐盘温度、酒杯杯型、服务人员的动作和侍酒温度等细节,能感受到餐厅的专业水准。特别要提到的是,VIC餐厅为了让客人一家感受到家庭享受快乐时光的氛围,专门辟出为孩子们准备的玩乐区域,甚至还提供孩子们喜欢的棉花糖。今天万达索菲特大酒店餐饮部总监蓝瑞涛和行政主厨Sakal Phoeung也在餐厅和来客们交流,听取意见和反馈。

推荐:
越南龙虾
清炒海虹(Moule)
红酒焖鸡(Coq au vin)
法国进口生蚝
水果塔
Macaron

 

国际美食餐厅VIC
地址:北京市朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座索菲特大酒店6层
电话:010-85996666-6521
人均:200~350
停车:有
刷卡:可

Blind tasting of Old and New World wines

-Blind tasting of Old and New World wines

 

WINEONLINE WINE CLUB WINE TASTING 

Maxime LU / WINEONLINE WINE CLUB (BEIJING)

Along with the popularization of wine, the concept of the “New World” and the “ Old World” has been referred to in different wine events or media frequently. The “New World” represents those new wine-producing countries such as the United States, Australia, Chili and South Africa, while the “Old World” represents those traditional wine-producing countries such as French, Italy and Spanish.

The “New World” formed a strong force opposed to the “Old World” as it grows up. Those two Worlds faced fierce competition in the target market.

The “New World” takes the significant market share in mid-range and low end market with scientific brewing and various brewing concept. Furthermore, it gradually penetrates into high end market through some high standard market behaviors.

In contrast to the “ New World”, the “Old World” has the competitive advantage in high end market with profound culture, technology accumulation and humanity idea and also gradually recovers parts of mid-range and low end market during communication and merging.

For the sake of fairness, this time we will compare the “New world” and the “Old World” with the form. of blind tasting.

I chose five kinds of wines from 5 wine-producing countries, including Old World wines from Italy and France and New World wines from Argentina, Australia and China.

Specific wines are as follows:

Wine 1:Callia Alta Shiraz-Malbec 2007, Argentina
Wine 2:DANZANTE MERLOT,DELA SICILIA 2004, Australia
Wine 3:PICQUE CAILLOU,La Reserve 2003,Pessac-Leognan, France
Wine 4:ROSEMOUNT HILL of GOLD,Cabernet Sauvignon,2004, Austalia
Wine 5:ZhongFa Zhuangyuan(中法庄园 ),Marselan, dry red wine,2004,China

The vote result of blind tasting shows that New World wine has an absolute advantage, which is the same as the result of the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976.

Wine 1:  20 scores    (market price, <100 yuan)

Wine 2:  10 scores    (market price, 100yuan~200yuan)

Wine 3:  20 scores    (market price, 200yuan~300yuan)

Wine 4:  22 scores    (market price, 200yuan~300yuan)

Wine 5:  26 scores    (market price, 300yuan~400yuan)

 

Wine 1 from Argentina with the lowest market price received the same score as wine 3 from France, while wine 2 from Italy didn’t meet with great favor, although its price is higher than wine 1. Apparently, the public prefers the flavor of New World wine.

Especially, ZhongFaZhuangyuan(中法庄园),Marselan, dry red wine,2004 stand out above the rest in this blind tasting with its unique style. and standardization of French vineyards, although it comes from young vines. I always think that Marselan’s development in China should not stop so soon. However, ZhongFaZhuangyuan(中法庄园) is on sale right now.
My tasting notes are as follows:

Wine 1:Callia Alta Shiraz-Malbec 2007, Argentina
Deep black red color, intense aromas of blueberries, raspberries with sweet candy flavor; good mouth-feel, medium body, fine tannin but a little bit weak, well-balanced, short-to-medium length. It’s a favorable dry red wine with excellent price-performance ratio.

Wine 2:DANZANTE MERLOT,DELA SICILIA 2004, Australia

Deep black red color; with a nose of gravy, almond and cranberries, as well as the flavor of blueberries cheese; medium body, wood-flavor, well-balanced, tannin is a little bit rough; obvious acid especially in after taste. This dry red wine coming from Sicilia is worth the price, but its unique aromas, not well-balancing and obvious acid are not favored. 

Wine 3:PICQUE CAILLOU,La Reserve 2003,Pessac-Leognan, France

Deep ruby red color; exquisite blackcurrant aromas with fungus, dead leaves; exquisite tannin with medium power, medium-to-long length with herbal medicine breath, the typical character of Bordeaux

 

Wine 4:ROSEMOUNT HILL of GOLD,Cabernet Sauvignon,2004, Austalia
Deep black red color; intense aromas of blackcurrant, vanilla and cinnamon with typical spicy flavor; semi-sweet mouth-feel, medium-to-full body, medium-to-strong tannin, harmonious-balanced, medium-to-long length. It’s an Australia wine that shows the strength of typical characters of Cabernet Sauvignon.

 Wine 5ZhongFaZhuangyuan(中法庄园)Marselan, dry red wine,2004,China

Deep ruby red color; intense aromas of longan and blackberries; sweet mouth-feel, light to medium body, light to medium tannin, holly leaf-flavor with a little bit hot after taste. Its distinctive breath is favored.