Steven Spurrier对五大酒庄2009年份期酒的点评

贴点DECANTER的Steven Spurrier对五大酒庄2009年份期酒的点评:

Tasting notes by Steven Spurrier/DECANTER

Chateau Haut-Brion, 1er Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009

Black red, satiny smooth expression of pure fruit, rich and velvety texture with firm tannins that show up after the concentrated fragrance of pure vineyard fruit, beautiful structure and almost massive for Haut-Brion, but this robustness will assure a great and fascinating future. Drink 2016-45. (19.5 points)
 

Chateau Latour, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, huge concentration of black fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45 (19.5 points)
 

Chateau Margaux, 1er Cru Classe, Margaux 2009

Fine black red, quite magical bouquet, pure quality of cashmere silkiness on the palate with a touch of fragrance from Cabernet Franc, blending softness of attack with pure density. A wine of stunning fragrance and purity, the most perfect expression imaginable of the greatest of Margaux vineyards. Drink 2016-40. (20 points)
 

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50. (19.5 points)
 

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety yet firm texture, rich, plummy, spicy, an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40. (19 points)

波尔多2009年份是个精彩年份,但不是超级水平!

很高兴权威的Decanter最新的这篇文章, 希望能让贪婪的波尔多酒庄主们收敛点. 前段时间他们或他们影响到的地方把2009期酒捧得过高.

Bordeaux 2009: An ‘exciting’ vintage, but disagreements over quality
波尔多2009年份是个精彩年份,但不是超级水准!
April 7, 2010
 By Guy Woodward

As the dust settles on the en primeur week, followers of the lauded Bordeaux 2009 are facing more questions than answers over what is proving an intoxicating vintage.

Whereas in most years, patterns tend to emerge over favoured communes or styles, this year there is no broad consensus ?other than that there are some stunning wines around.

‘It’s the most exciting vintage I’ve known in 15 years of tasting en primeur,’ said the normally reserved Decanter contributing editor James Lawther MW.

‘But it’s impossible to generalise about specific communes and appellations.’

Many trade and press visitors went to Bordeaux expecting to be overwhelmed by the wines’ alcohol content, which is as high as it has ever been.

Yet with acidity levels also high, few have reported the levels as being intrusive, save for a handful of wines.

Chief among these was Cos d’Estournel ?at 14.5% alcohol it was ‘undrinkable’ according to UK merchant Charles Taylor, a ‘disaster’ in the view of Sotheby’s’ Serena Sutcliffe MW, but ‘already of legendary proportions’ in the mind of Hew Blair of UK merchant J&B.

Simon Staples from UK merchant Berry Bros warned against comparing 2009 to the much-praised 2005 vintage.

‘Is it better than 2005 across the board? No,’ he said.

‘Quite a lot of the Merlot-dominant wines of the right bank, who left their grapes on the vines a tad too long, are off balance with very harsh, high alcoholic levels.’

Decanter’s scores and tasting notes from the Bordeaux 2009 en primeur tasting week can be found here.