中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目音频

中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目(首席葡萄酒顾问陆江)

Wineonline Wine School  –  Wineonline Wine Club

音频点击: CRI-Wineonline wine club

(China Now!)Wine-tasting classes popular in Beijing 

Anchor:

How much knowledge do you know about wine? Can you tell the difference between wines from different places? Do you know your manners when drinking wine in various social situations? More and more Chinese people, especially white collars, are taking wine training classes not only for better networking but also to enjoy the rich culture of wine.

Du Lijun has more.

Reporter:

(Ambience: Teacher’s talking and students’ discussion)

This is a wine training class of Wine Online Culture, a company that conducts wine-tasting courses and promotes wine culture in Beijing. After learning the typical characters of wines produced from Spain and America, the teacher asks students to sip some of them and then to describe the different tastes.

Xu Xinrui, who is attending the training class for the first time, is very interested in wine. She said two years ago she knew nothing about the wine, but now knowledge of wine means a lot to her.

[SB1, Xu, in Chinese]

“I am working for a magazine specializing in alcoholic drinks. Due to this, I need to learn as much as I can about them, and I’ve found out wine is getting more and more popular among Chinese people. It’s a social fashion. I need to know wine in a professional way. I feel good in the class.”

Xu says at the beginning she just wanted to increase her knowledge about wine. After trying the wine in some small sips, she fell in love with it.

Unlike European countries, China historically didn’t have a wine-drinking tradition. Wine is a comparatively new thing in China.

Lu Jiang, chief wine advisor of Wine Online Culture Company, says the original idea of organizing wine training classes was to help those who are in need of wine knowledge. Most of his clients are hotels’ service staffers or people who want to become a wine taster.

But now things have changed; many ordinary people come to his class. They believe wine can help them become more sociable. At the same time, they also want to discover the real charm of wine.

[SB, Lu, in Chinese]
“Wine itself has a rich culture. During our two-day class you can only scratch the surface. What I would like to do is to introduce wine culture to each one of my students. I open the door for them to discover the wine. I myself think wine has its own charming taste. In social situations, wine is a symbol of being elegant and graceful. That is also the reason which explains why wine has become increasingly trendy in China, especially among the middle class.”

Zhao Hang became the fan of wine in 2006. He says since the very beginning he knew he made a very smart choice.

[SB3, Zhao, in Chinese]

“I love it. Five years ago I just graduated from the college to start my first job. And I thought I needed some new interests in my life. I found wine. I chose it because I thought wine contained a lot of Western culture. Through wine I can learn about Western countries. Now I am proud of my wine knowledge – its benefits for my social connection is just one side. What is more important is that I’ve discovered the true spirit of wine.”

(Ambience of drinking wine)

The latest figures show that the volume of wine consumed in China doubled from 2005 and 2009. And during this period, some amateurs become professional.

Chen Weiran, who is now an assistant of Lu Jiang, says wine has brought her a totally new life.

[SB4, Chen, in Chinese]

“I fell in love wine at the first taste. I like all kinds of wine. Sometimes only seeing wine without drinking it will make me happy. I enjoy the tastes of different wines and the culture of them. Wine has become an integral part in my life. Before becoming an assistant I was working in the IT field. Now instead of facing all those boring charts and diagrams, tasting the different flavors of wine has helped me rediscover the beauty of life.”

For whatever reason people start to drink wine, many of them are becoming interested in it and eventually are discovering the glamour of wine.

For CRI, I’m Du Lijun.

关于醒酒

关于醒酒

-陆江(Maxime LU)/万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部 

dekanter_2009_12

醒酒,不是醉酒后的醒,而是为了欣赏某些葡萄酒所需的重要过程,醒酒实质是通过扩大酒与空气的接触,以期对葡萄酒达到类似人间唤醒般的绽放效果。 

欣赏葡萄酒和欣赏美食从本源上来说是相同的,无外乎“色、香、味”等不同感官部分的感受,而所谓的“行家”则是有着可能的较为敏锐的生理感受,还有引申出去的精神、文化等延展表达。 

而醒酒在品鉴中作用的层面,从我个人的实践和感知来说,主要集中于感官感受部分。对“色”的改变几乎可以忽略不计;对于“味”来说也只是有一定的变化,而且对于有水准的葡萄酒,无论醒酒与否其在口中的实力展现都应与其水准相符;而对于“香”,也即葡萄酒香气的改变,醒酒有着显著的作用,尤其是对封闭内敛的佳酿来说,这是个促其绽放的过程,是展现其香气复杂度的催化反应。而葡萄酒鉴赏的重要内容-整体平衡感的实现,不但是味觉上的丰富呈现,还需有同样复杂度的香气来平衡匹配,以求达到整体感官的和谐体会。醒酒在推动展现佳酿的复杂平衡和谐方面有着独到的功效。 

但是无论醒酒功能如何显著,有一点不能忽略的是,酒本身的实力和特质,醒酒如同际遇一般,只能帮助酒激发并展现其实力,并不能从根本上提升酒本身的品质或是扭转缺陷。 

说起来醒酒本身,是有一定争议的,对于不同特质的葡萄酒的有效性表现不一。上月一次品酒会,本来准备一款水准不弱的顶级庄的副牌来压轴享用,可倒入杯中醒酒,意外发现这款一直保持平淡,和今年北京的春天一般,迟迟未能绽放,虽然口感已能看到其实力。不过口感和香气的落差却让我还是有些失望。 

事实上,这些年我经历过醒酒后不同表现的各色酒款,结果是颇为戏剧。有些酒款实力尽显,大家风范;有些昙花一现,后续乏力;还有些平淡依旧,不温不火。人生亦然!

完美酒食搭配之《芭贝特的盛宴-Babette’s Feast》

 

完美酒食搭配之《芭贝特的盛宴-Babette’s Feast

  

[活动总结]2009.11.08万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列50,品鉴<<芭贝特的盛宴-Babette’s Feast>>之佳酿.

 

陆江 / 万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部
Maxime LU / WINEONLINE WINE CLUB

 

一直想做期美食美酒电影的看片品酒会,秋冬季稍微有些闲暇,一个周末的下午,我定了个看片酒约。

babette's feast 芭贝特盛宴

babette's feast 芭贝特盛宴

 

以前看过一些美食美酒片。从国语的“饮食男女”到近几个月流行的“Julie&Julia”, 都是我曾经的关注热点。不过如果只能选一部的话,我会毫不犹豫地给出答案“芭贝特的盛宴-Babette’s Feast”。关于主题影片的选定,也就是这“唯一”的选择。

作为1988年60届奥斯卡最佳外语片奖得主,丹麦影片<<芭贝特的盛宴-Babette’s Feast>>不但在影视艺术领域 、宗教思想领域有着不凡地位,在美食美酒领域也是殿堂级的制作,尤其是影片的后半段可以领略到一场完美的晚宴,价值一万法郎的真正的French Dinner。无论从食材、餐具、配酒到整个晚宴进程的餐食搭配,都堪称经典。

于我而言,晚宴的再现,一直有所期待,只是晚宴的盛奢和精致确是有些遥远,不过餐中搭配的酒款品鉴倒是可以近似再现。当然已难觅片中完全相同的佳酿,不过我还是找到了相近的酒款。其实除去餐后的烈酒, 本片中出现的葡萄酒, 仅为3款, 分别搭配了头汤,前菜和主菜.

万事俱备,看片酒约也有众多反馈确认.说实话,品酒会已经是我和朋友们交流的重要方式, 每回都能见到不少熟识的铁杆酒友,一起分享葡萄酒带来的快乐,无论是口舌或是精神的愉悦.

 

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活动日,第一阶段我首先介绍了<<芭贝特的盛宴〉〉的大概背景和主要情节,而且分享了西方正式晚宴的配酒知识和顺序,以及晚宴的组成,结合影片来分析餐食搭配和体会完整晚宴的进程。搭好了铺垫,好戏就要开始了!

第二阶段看完整盛宴片段,从芭贝特开始采购食材配料以及美酒,还有器皿场地的准备,到烹制场景,然后是完整的晚宴。尤其是晚宴进程,几乎完整完美呈现了法餐的套式。还有通过将军的独自感慨或交流发言将具体菜品和酒款进行巧妙介绍和恰当点评。我和众酒友也领略了颇多“震撼”,鹅肝、黑松露、黑鱼子酱等,一场囊括了法餐中公认的主流顶尖食材的盛宴。还有不少那个时代的上等佳酿,无怪乎需要整整一万法郎的高昂代价。

虽然只是下午4点,片中美食的诱惑,竟然让我和不少酒友忍不住垂涎。到品酒阶段已在研究晚上尝菜体验的计划。说来好笑,是夜我们几个老饕,找不到鹌鹑,结果拿烤乳鸽解馋来着,这是后话。

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品鉴配酒是我们能与片中最直接共鸣的阶段。品试的顺序是按照电影中的顺序。

首先是模拟搭配头汤-海龟汤Potage a la Tortue的GARVEY,TIO GUILLERMO,AMONTILLADO型西班牙雪莉酒。汤的配酒,由于汤本身液体的特殊性,通常葡萄酒较难胜任,而加强型葡萄酒,则可应用有效,尤其是有着绍兴黄酒般特质的Amontillado型雪莉来搭配海龟汤,还有部分去腥增味的效果。

第二款是模拟搭配前菜-黑鱼子酱荞麦饼Blini Demidoff au Caviar Russe的Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin,1999,黄牌年份香槟,上等的俄罗斯黑鱼子酱和细腻优雅的陈年香槟是公认的完美搭配,精致细腻的鱼子在口中齿间的温柔爆裂,与美妙的香槟气泡在舌面的跳动有着完美融合和异曲同工之妙,另外香槟中的酸度也很好地抵御鱼子中微微的海腥味道。有幸找到同一家香槟庄,也同是年份香槟,虽然1860和1999两个年份相隔久远,但还是能找到某些关联和共鸣.

第三款是模拟搭配主菜-千层酥皮烤鹌鹑,配鹅肝馅松露汁Caille en Sarcophage avec Sauce Perigourdine的Vougeot,Premier Cru,Roux Pere & Fils 2005。烤野禽和美妙的松露汁需要有足够复杂度的陈年老酒来搭配,还有鹅肝更需要搭配佳酿有足够细腻的口感,另外都是顶尖食材,匹配的也需是上等好酒。影片中的上等老布根地配酒几乎是完美绝配。因为预算和酒厂难觅,我最终选择了Clos de Vougeot相近产区Vougeot Premier Cru, 而且是较新年份,有些遗憾。不过这款2005年的Vougeot,还是能够将布根地Vougeot产区的复杂性和黑皮诺的细腻很好展现。

 

 

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影片中的菜单、酒单以及酒款点评:
-头汤:海龟汤Potage a la Tortue(Turtle Soup)
电影配酒:Amontillado型西班牙雪莉酒
品酒会选酒: GARVEY,TIO GUILLERMO,AMONTILLADO
陆江点评:一款干型的西班牙Amontillado型雪莉酒,有点类似绍兴黄酒的西方酒种.淡琥珀色,核桃、焦糖、甘草的主导气息,还有烘烤、橡木的味道;中重酒体,口中有杏仁味道,圆润平衡,有一定层次感,回味悠长,甘草味一直贯穿。跨越时空地体会到这一特殊酒种的风采,奇妙的体验。

-前菜:黑鱼子酱荞麦饼Blini Demidoff au Caviar Russe(Buckwheat cakes with Russian caviar)
电影配酒:Veuve Clicquot Vintage 1860
品酒会选酒:Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin,1999,黄牌年份香槟。
陆江点评:淡黄绿色,气泡偏少,但细腻持久;谷物、杏干、酵母的气息,还能轻易捕捉到蜜柚、焦糖的香气;入口后有着山楂花、矿物和红莓果类的味道,气泡柔和有一定力度,中等酒体,适当的酸度支撑,圆润馥郁,中长回味。宛若娴静优雅的成熟少妇,娓娓透出几缕风情。

-主菜:千层酥皮烤鹌鹑,配鹅肝馅松露汁Caille en Sarcophage avec Sauce Perigourdine(Quail in Puff Pastry Shell with Foie Gras and Truffle Sauce)
电影配酒:Clos de Vougeot 1845,Chez Philippe de Rue Montorgeuil
品酒会选酒:Vougeot,Premier Cru,Roux Pere & Fils 2005.
陆江点评:樱桃红,覆盆子、樱桃和糖渍水果的香气,随着时间推移,逐渐透出玫瑰花瓣、皮革、丁香和粉笔的气息;平衡,酒体中等,单宁柔和细致,中等强度,还有点封闭和收敛;回味中长,有着黑巧克力的味道。

-蔬菜类沙拉La Salade(Salad Course)

-奶酪拼盘Les Fromages(Cheeses)

-甜点: 巴布卡朗姆蛋糕Baba au Rhum(Rum Baba)

-果盘(Fresh Fruits)

-咖啡

-餐后消食烈酒:Vieux Marc Fine Champagne.

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Johnnie Walker Blue Label 苏格兰尊尼获加蓝方威士忌

JOHNNIE WALKER Blue Label苏格兰尊尼获加蓝方威士忌

陆江/万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部/2009-11-08

头回品尝,没想到还不错.

Johnnie Walker Blue Label 威士忌,Bottle No.Z188470 JW. 1L,43%.

琥珀色,典型松香、木香、焦糖、烤杏仁、精致的烟熏等香气,不错的复杂性;上佳的平衡口感,竟然感受不到高酒精度的回热,温润柔顺,厚重微甘,愉悦多样的层次感;极为悠长的回味。
作为Johnnie Walker威士忌的最高系列的产品,是从苏格兰不同地区的珍稀源酒,手工层层精选,进行特别调配而成,风格形成于19世纪早期,部分源酒已经绝版。

JohnnieWalkerBlueLabels