摩尔多瓦-揭开面纱中的葡萄酒大国

摩尔多瓦-揭开面纱中的葡萄酒大国

-摩尔多瓦葡萄酒在华推广现状

陆江(Maxime LU)

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  前不久,我应邀参加中国葡萄酒媒体团,访问了著名的东欧葡萄酒生产国摩尔多瓦。摩尔多瓦作为前苏联计划经济体系下的主力供酒国之一,是全球第十大葡萄酒生产国,葡萄种植面积为11.2万公顷,与法国波尔多产区面积相仿,有着悠久的葡萄酒历史。葡萄酒产业约有25万就业人口,产值占到3.2%的GDP总量,占出口比重约为7.5%。虽然只是个500万人口的内陆小国,不过葡萄酒方面却是颇具实力和潜力的大国。我们一行在当地访问不同产区的酒庄、葡萄园,还有独特的庞大酒窖景观,品鉴了很有代表性的各产区酒款,让我对摩尔多瓦葡萄酒的多样性、独特性和高性价比印象深刻,当然丰厚独有的葡萄酒旅游资源也是极具竞争力。

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虽然上世纪90年代初苏联解体,摩尔多瓦仍然对俄罗斯为首的前苏联加盟共和国的葡萄酒市场有着极大的依赖。随着地缘政治的博弈加剧,摩尔多瓦地处罗马尼亚和乌克兰之间,成为欧盟和俄罗斯争夺的焦点之一。政治和外交对葡萄酒这项摩尔多瓦举足轻重的产业影响巨大,2006年摩尔多瓦葡萄酒就曾被俄罗斯全面拒绝,导致葡萄酒行业严重受挫,同期也激发的摩尔多瓦葡萄酒企业往外走的想法。当时在中国国内,我首次接触到的摩尔多瓦葡萄酒,就是著名的Cricova酒庄(2014 ProWine China 参展商),只是由于都是葡萄酒企业的个体商业行为,所以零星的摩尔多瓦酒企迈入中国市场,并没有形成合力,摩尔多瓦产酒国的形象在中国市场的认知是非常有限的,所以整体市场表现也并不尽如人意。

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随着摩尔多瓦与欧盟逐渐走近,今年2014年6月27日,欧盟与摩尔多瓦在布鲁塞尔正式签署联系国协定,摩尔多瓦议会7月2日通过了联系国协定。俄罗斯为了施压再次全面禁止进口摩尔多瓦的酒类产品,这使摩尔多瓦葡萄酒行业意识到必须摆脱单一市场的依赖,要走向市场多样化,让酒类产品进入欧美、中国等市场。

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现今,摩尔多瓦在保留自己的葡萄酒传统风格的基础上,逐渐在葡萄种植酿造、生产管理等方面与欧盟或国际标准并轨,为自己走向国际市场铺平道路。这次我们葡萄酒媒体团走访摩尔多瓦,就有亲身体会,举例说,有不止一家酒厂的工作人员向我们提到地理标识(GI)方面的保护,原来流行常用的一些欧盟保护的专用词,如Cahor,Cognac等,都已采用新的词汇代替。

中国作为世界上最富潜力的葡萄酒消费市场之一,自然成了摩尔多瓦葡萄酒的主要目标。今年就能明显感觉到摩尔多瓦在加大在华的市场推广力度。摩尔多瓦葡萄酒协会聘请了熟悉中国本地葡萄酒行业的专业公关团队,还安排中国的葡萄酒媒体走访摩尔多瓦葡萄酒产区。

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尤其特别要提到的是,在今年下半年中国大陆最有影响力的酒展ProWine China中,摩尔多瓦葡萄酒协会首次组团参加中国大陆酒展,以集体的形象向大陆买家和其他各类专业人士展现自己的特点和优势。其中展商不乏一些我在摩尔多瓦走访过,颇具实力的酒企如Asconi ,CRICOVA,Chateau Vartely,Fautor,Migdal-P,Purcari。本届酒展里还有重头戏,就是请到了在亚太区颇有声望的Debra Meiburg MW 在这个展会期间主持了五场关于摩尔多瓦葡萄酒的专题大师班研讨会(Seminar)。这为摩尔多瓦葡萄酒的专业品质,国际化形象的建立,都有积极推动作用。虽然从现阶段来说,仍处在一个市场推广的初级阶段,还没有那么多立竿见影的收效或回报,但是现在大家对摩尔多瓦葡萄酒的认知逐渐在开始建立,这也是开拓新兴市场的有效必要路径。

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当然为了达到摩尔多瓦葡萄酒在中国能广泛打开市场的目标,还需要国家层面支持的葡萄酒协会的持续努力。包括继续坚持对不同传播渠道的有计划持久的推介,尤其是传播精准迅速的新媒体,还有葡萄酒教育方面的推广合作,与业内的KOL意见领袖保持联系和互动,以及积极参加有影响力的大陆酒展,如ProWine China等。

摩尔多瓦葡萄酒继续秉承自有的优势,在持续的推广努力下,相信在不久的将来会在中国市场得到业内人士和消费者的认知认可,并获得丰硕的市场回报。

作者: 陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师,资深葡萄酒收藏顾问。

【欢迎搜索:“万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部” 或“wineclos”,关注我们公众号,或者扫描下方图形二维码。我们这里有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。】

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最新品酒会活动:

[活动预告]2015-01-11,万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列127,”葡萄牙国酒波特和著名品牌”

http://www.wineonline.cn/club2015-01-11pre.htm

Ongoing Promotions of Moldova Wines in China

Recently, I was invited to join a Chinese media delegation of wines to visit Moldova, the well-known East European wine producer. As a leading wine supplier of the former Soviet Union with the centrally planned economy, Moldova is the world’s No.10 wine producer and has a long history of wine production. The country’s wine-growing regions cover an area of 112,000 hectares, about the same as that of Bordeaux, France. Around 250,000 people are employed by the wine industry, the output value of which accounts for 3.2% of the country’s GDP and about 7.5% of the export volume. With a population of only 5 million, the small land-locked country boasts of solid strength and huge potential in wines. We visited chateaus and vineyards and unique large wine cellars and tasted signature wines in various wine-growing regions. I was deeply impressed by the diversity, individuality and high cost performance of Moldovan wines. Moreover, the country’s abundant and unique wine tourism resources are really competitive.

Despite the collapse of the Soviet Union in the 1990s, Moldova was once excessively dependent on the wine markets of former Soviet Republics led by Russia. Due to intensifying geo-political games, Moldova, lying between Romania and Ukraine, has been coveted by the EU and Russia. Politics and diplomacy have a huge influence on its decisive wine industry. In 2006, Russia banned imports of Moldovan wines, severely striking Moldova’s wine industry and motivating its wineries to go global. My initial impression on Moldovan wines was established by learning about the renowned Cricova Chateau (exhibitor of ProWine China 2014). At that time, no synergy was generated by a handful Moldovan wineries. Few Chinese consumers recognized the image of Moldova as a wine producer, resulting in the country’s poor market performance.

Moldova and the EU have been enjoying closer ties in recent years. On June 27, 2014, the two sides signed an Association Agreement in Brussels. On July 2, the Moldovan Parliament passed the agreement. Russia again banned imports of all Moldovan wines to put pressure on the country. The Moldovan wine industry has realized that it’s imperative to eliminate its dependence on the single market, pursue market diversification, and expand their presence in European, American, and Chinese markets.
While preserving its time-honored wine styles, Moldova is currently introducing EU or even global standards in grape growing, wine making, production, management, etc., in a bid to pave the way for international markets. The media delegation of wines gained insights in this regard. For instance, several wineries mentioned the protection of geographical indications (GIs). Some GIs protected by the EU widely used in the past, e.g. Cahor and Cognac, have been replaced by new ones.
It’s no surprise that China, one of the wine consumer markets with the biggest potential in the world, has become a key target of Moldovan wines. This year, Moldova has been stepping up efforts in promoting its wines in the Chinese market. The Moldovan Wine Guild has engaged professional PR teams familiar with the Chinese wine industry and arranged Chinese wine media to visit the country’s wine-growing regions.
It’s worth mentioning that, in late 2014, the Moldovan Wine Guild organized local wineries to participate in ProWine China, the most influential trade fair for wine and spirits on the Chinese mainland. It’s the first time for Moldovan wineries as a pavilion to participate in a wine exhibition on the Chinese mainland and showcase their features and advantages among Chinese buyers and other professionals. I have visited some of the exhibitors from Moldova, which are leading players in the country’s wine industry, e.g. CRICOVA, Chateau Vartely, Fautor, Migdal-P, and Purcari. As a highlight of ProWine China 2014, Debra Meiburg MW, a highly-reputed Master of Wine in the Asia-Pacific region, was invited to host five Master Classes (Seminars) of Moldovan wines, promoting the professional quality of Moldovan wines and image branding in the international market. Presently, market promotions are still at the initial stage without immediate effects or benefits. Nevertheless, more and more Chinese consumers are beginning to recognize Moldovan wines, which is an efficient and inevitable path to exploiting emerging markets.
Needless to say, wine associations supported by government authorities should make continuous efforts in order to expand the presence of Moldovan wines in the Chinese market, including constant and well-planned promotions through various communication channels, particularly new media featuring accurate and rapid communication, promotion and cooperation in wine education, keeping contact and interaction with professional key opinion leaders, participating in leading trade fairs of wine and spirits on the Chinese mainland, e.g. ProWine China, etc.
Looking ahead, Moldovan wineries will maintain their traditional advantages. With enduring promotional efforts, Moldovan wines will be recognized and acknowledged by both industry insiders and consumers alike, and reap substantial market benefits in the near future.
– LU Jiang, WineSchool China –

Prowein, Explore the hidden treasure【德国酒展Prowein报道】非主流葡萄酒产国见闻

【德国酒展Prowein报道】非主流葡萄酒产国见闻

Prowein, Explore the hidden treasure

陈微然 Sylvia CHEN

Moldova

摩尔多瓦的葡萄酒产业相对较新,三个月前摩尔多瓦农业部门才划定了葡萄酒法定产区。摩尔多瓦的葡萄酒现今还处于以低价求市场的阶段,白葡萄酒清新,易饮,红葡萄酒属于野性奔放型。

葡萄酒的主要产区在国家的中部Central Codru Zone,有60%的葡萄酒都产自这个地区。整个地区春秋多雨,冬季最低温度可达到零下30度,夏季的最高温度在25度左右。当地种植的葡萄品种以本地品种为主,但是近些年为了走进国际市场种植了不少国际流行品种。

Prowein上展出的摩尔多瓦葡萄酒大多来自比较有实力的大厂,看酒庄的宣传资料,不少已经有一定的规模,展会上看包装和宣传方式也能跟得上当前的趋势。整个摩尔多瓦往中国的出口每年居然有一百万瓶,自2006年俄罗斯对摩尔多瓦实施禁运以后,中国市场就成了摩尔多瓦的主要目标。

值得一提的是,摩尔多瓦还有专门的网站介绍本国的葡萄酒www.vinmoldova.md,有英语,俄语,罗马尼亚语三种语言,网站的信息非常详细,有当地的活动,当地几乎所有葡萄酒酒庄的介绍和联系方式。而且摩尔多瓦的葡萄酒酒庄非常善于和国外寻求资助,此次展会的经费有75%都有外部的援助,分别来自美国和荷兰的基金会。

Georgia

今年的Prowein,格鲁吉亚占据了不小的展台,作为葡萄种植的发祥地同时也是一个古老的酿酒国度。不少格鲁吉亚的酒厂都会在采用传奎弗瑞陶罐酿制法的同时,采用欧式的葡萄酒酿造方式。白葡萄酒以清淡果香型为主,略带残糖,陶罐酿制的红葡萄酒入口柔顺但后端单宁粗强。格鲁吉亚的葡萄酒产区被国土中段的Likhi山脉分为东西两段,东部偏干燥,但光照相对充足葡萄的含糖量较高,西部频临黑海,受海洋影响气候相对温和。整个国家最高温度夏天在30°冬天在-1°左右。传统的陶罐酿制法会把葡萄连皮籽入罐陈年5-6个月后装瓶,东部的葡萄酒产区白葡萄酒酿制也采用此法。成酒香气浓郁,单宁粗强。

Romania

罗马尼亚的葡萄酒业由于有政府补助,整个发展势头强劲, 越来越多的国民参与到葡萄酒事业当中来。酒农每新种植一公顷葡萄园能够拿到2000-5000欧不等的政府补助,让不少东欧国家的酒厂眼红。罗马尼亚以产国际流行品种酿造的葡萄酒为主,也有一部分当地的特有品种Feteasca Neagra,Feteasca Alba  分别是红白葡萄品种的代表。分级制度为VM 餐桌酒,VMS优等餐桌酒,VS 地区餐酒, DOC 法定产区葡萄酒。其中DOC又按照含糖量不通分3个级别,全熟采摘,迟摘和贵腐。我尝到的几家酒厂主要还是以法国的风格为主。

Turkey

土耳其由于是下一届欧洲葡萄酒峰会的举办地,所以在欧美的网络媒体上红火了一阵。整个土耳其在葡萄酒推广方面还是相当开放和积极。几乎欧洲各大酒展都有他们的身影。用的酿酒葡萄以当地品种为主,国际流行品种也占了不少份额,白葡萄以Emir, Narince为代表,红葡萄以Okuzgozu, Bogazkere为代表。白葡萄酒为清淡果香型,红葡萄酒普遍是中重酒体,有不少波尔多混酿,做的挺有波尔多的神韵,就是欠些精细和平衡。

在这些东欧国家的葡萄酒推广有些进退两难,如果想更好的向国际市场进发,就得用国际流行葡萄品种,有时不免向知名产区的风格靠拢。如果想发展出自我风格,采用当地品种,语言这个天然的障碍给葡萄酒的国际化添加不少阻力。如何选择,必有取舍。

Isreal

以色列的酒厂以出产国际流行葡萄品种为主,值得一提的是,我尝到Yarden和其他酒厂的的Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc,Chardonnay,Viognier都脱离了教科书式的风格。对中国人来说可能不太习惯这种味道,但对以色列本土的葡萄酒产业来说,这种本国特色未尝不是好事。非常推荐Yarden家的SyrahCabernet Sauvignon, 2007年份的Syrah充满了红果酱的味道,而后出现的肉汁和香料的气息更让人沉醉,中重酒体,入口柔和,单宁顺滑,绵长的回味。单一葡萄园的Syrah在凝缩度方面又上了一个档次,15%的酒精度却也不那么明显,质量上乘。2008年的Cabernet Sauvignon经过18个月橡木桶的陈年,香气以浓郁的黑粒子为主,入口酸度坚挺,单宁柔和却有十分力度。

关于参加Prowein的一点小建议

7.8个展厅实在太大,一定要提前做好功课,把想去的酒庄展位记好,并且按照展厅排好顺序。展会上的活动大多用德文,个别用英文的活动会特别标出,一定要留意。由于举办地在德国,大多数人还是冲着德国,奥地利的葡萄酒去,前两天最好走走其他国家。基本上最后一天下午参展商会陆陆续续离场,可以把这两个国家放在最后一天上午。对于进口商的建议是一定要选好酒庄,提前预约会谈,大部分酒庄的日程都很满,你会发现酒庄会议席每时每刻都有人,根本没有你插足的余地。