2012年份:一个珍稀的勃艮第年份

BIVB发来邮件向各国记者通报2012年勃艮第采收状况,2012一个珍惜的年份。还是很真诚实际的写出了当年的天气状况和面临的挑战。

 

春寒带早霜,坐果millerandage的情况屡见不鲜,造成今年多小果粒葡萄。热浪和冰雹共存的夏季有非常大的不稳定性,有时过高的温度也让少部分果粒受损,白粉病和霜霉病也是今年葡萄园的常客。不过收获的葡萄大多健康,蕴含精华的小果粒也会成就不错的集中度。最终的官方报出酒庄总体有20%的减产,在夜丘的确是这个范围,博纳丘因为多受冰雹的侵袭,减产幅度较大。不过具体的数字会在明年1月报出。

 

手中2010年份的报价个别酒庄涨幅挺大,不知跟2012的小产量是否有关。自大好年份2009过后,2010年起始,勃艮第的酒庄一直在减产,10-20%不等。于此同时国人对勃艮第葡萄酒的热情却渐渐升温,价格的涨幅肯定会是日后勃艮第葡萄酒的热点问题。名庄酒在勃艮第无疑是质量的保证,名庄,名田,知名酿酒师,质量的三重保证让人打消疑虑。不过如果价格持续升温,因为供需的不对等,个别名庄酒的价格过分脱离群众,也许会让很多勃艮第爱好者会开始勃艮第按田索酒,追寻风土,寻找高性价比小酒庄的旅程。产区直供是否会成为盈利模式,现在还不得而知,不过至少对酒友来说这是个无上的福祉吧!

 

Official press release

2012: a rare and precious vintage in Bourgogne

Beaune, 12 November 2012

 

A first! That is what Bourgogne’s winegrowers are saying about this year’s weather. Given Mother Nature’s whims, they had to redouble their efforts to ensure the very best results from their vines. And the first tastings confirm that all their hard work was worthwhile. From the north of Bourgogne to the south, the industry is unanimous – the quality of this year’s nascent wines is excellent, surpassing all expectations given the weather.

The only downside is the quantity which is below average, down as much as 20% according to some estimates. (Definitive figures will be available in early 2013).

A mild winter, a chilly spring with frosts, a warm May, a cool and rainy June, an unstable summer, a heat wave, hail and storms – weather like this could not fail but affect the vines. The cold and rain in spring caused shatter, where some flowers fail to turn into fruit; millerandage where incomplete fertilization of the flower giving rise to small berries; and a big threat from both downy and powdery mildew. The brief hot periods in summer brought some very high temperatures that burned the fruit.

These phenomena, which occurred before the grapes ripened, meant yields were significantly lower this year, but had no impact on the quality of the grapes. On the contrary, aerated bunches of smaller berries guarantee concentration and intensity.

Having had to manage the elements and struggle on a daily basis, both man and materials have emerged from this vintage worn out, yet victorious. During the harvest, which took place under sunny skies, the grapes being welcomed into the wineries were healthy and showed no signs of disease or rot.

The scarcity of the 2012 vintage will only serve to make the wines even more precious!

White wines

These expressive wines reveal notes of fresh fruits and citrus. Forthright, they are already demonstration very good balance on the tongue.

The whites from northern Bourgogne are powerful, and translate the unique characteristics of their terroir: minerality with notes of flint and chalk.

This is a classic vintage, illustrated by the wines’ sophistication and good concentration.

Red wines

The wines are deep red in color, dense, and some are almost black.

They release rich and intense aromas of red berries. The tannins are ripe and silky, offering a lovely harmony on the tongue.

The 2012 vintage looks like a safe bet. The red wines reflect the diversity of each winegrowing region and offer a happy ending to this unusual year.

Crémant de Bourgogne

The low yields also concern the grapes for Crémant de Bourgogne wines, and the Gamay grape in particular. The Aligoté turned out to be more generous. Overall, production volumes could be down as much as 30%.

The grapes harvested were perfectly mature, combining the richness of optimum sugar content with good acidity. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir base wines are fruity,  with lovely balance.

2012 Burgundy Harvest Report【2012勃艮第采收图文报道】

 2012 Burgundy Harvest Report

【2012勃艮第采收图文报道】

Sylvia CHEN 陈微然

带着伦敦的寒气,经历第戎暴雨的洗礼,来不及多休息,第二天就奔向Gevrey Chambertin做采收采访。

采收季是每一年酒庄最忙的时候,身处在采收季的酒农们,通常早上六七点开工,到晚上十点多才完工,忙的时候饭都吃不上。不过此时此刻全世界的目光都聚集于产区,想知道2012这“灾难之年”的收成如何。新闻要枪,酒庄要访。最好的选择就是去这些一起吃过饭喝过茶灌过酒的“哥们儿”型酒庄。

一进酒庄就看着Didier先生穿着件各种颜色拼接起来的POLO衫,风风火火的四处奔走。正指挥着他的小团队洗榨汁机。早上刚刚榨完白葡萄,再过一个小时红葡萄就会送到。酒庄里的工作,80%都是清洗。卫生工作做好了,酒里才不会出莫名的异味。今天的Didier先生跟我平时见到的完全不一样,带着少有的兴奋和激动还有满脸的笑容,让这阴凉的空气中充满了热情。至于那件晃眼的POLO衫,他的解释是这衣服被酒染了也看不出来。

“咱的卡车回来了!”

酒庄里最年轻的工人兴奋的大喊把我有点开小差的思路带了回来。来的是一车Corton特级园Le Rognet,葡萄不多也就不到20箱的样子。

我站在采收台上,那些颤抖着的,滚动着的葡萄看的我眼花。Didier先生倒是从容的挑拣着,下手特别的稳准狠,有些我看上去挺健康的葡萄,到他手里总还要被好好修剪一番。我心疼,他就给我指指里面暗藏的染菌果粒或者干果粒。一串串葡萄经他手筛选过,留下的都是健康饱满的果粒。他特别自豪的跟我说:“看着吧,这就是酿出好酒的奥秘。”7人的采收台上,每个人都是经验丰富的老手。

随后,去梗过的葡萄会直接通过机器转移到酒桶中,避免泵送造成的不利影响。酒窖里全新的橡木桶已经被排好,静静的等待陈化新年份的葡萄。Dupont Tisserandot家一级园和特级园都是百分百的新桶,因为桶中陈年只有10个月左右,所以不会有想象中扑鼻的重桶味。

今年的葡萄其实没有想象中的那么差,这块Le Rognet产的葡萄挺少染病,只是有些大小不一罢了,成熟度都到12.3左右。后来到的Gevrey Chambertin村的葡萄,也形势喜人。今年的采收大多从20号左右开始,为了避免极端天气,采收的日子也略有提前。一级田和特级田会在周末开始采收,至此酒农们不分白天黑夜的生活也拉开序幕。相比去年来说,他家会有15%的减产,比想象当中要乐观的多。不过今年他家的产量估计会维持在23hl/h的超低值了。


12月份回国会把他家的酒带回去跟大家分享,到时候再好好介绍这个Allen Meadow均分90以上,超高性价比的酒庄Dupont Tisserandot