[深度群访]意大利葡萄酒在中国的推广现状

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文:陆江 | 葡萄酒在线

(本文已发表于Decanter中文版-醇鉴中国,转载请标明出处和署名)

葡萄酒行业深度群访

天猫酒水节已经结束一段时间,新年将至,我们特别采访了部分行业商会代表,进口商,意大利生产商,以及酒类专业人士等,希望能帮助读者了解意大利葡萄酒在中国市场的发展现状

去年2015年以葡萄酒产量计,意大利是世界第一大葡萄酒生产国,法国和西班牙分别位居第二和第三。尽管意大利葡萄酒在葡萄酒成熟消费市场,如美国,英国和德国等都占有较高份额。

不过在中国市场,根据中国海关统计数据,意大利葡萄酒的市场份额,无论数量(2.893千万升)还是金额(1.005亿美元),都仅列进口葡萄酒来源国的第五位。

近几年意大利也明显加大对中国市场的葡萄酒推广力度,从酒展,培训到媒体走访等。尤其今年上半年4月,意方还邀请了阿里巴巴集团董事会主席马云出席意大利Vinitaly酒展,期间马云还和当时的意大利总理伦齐会面,提到要帮助意大利葡萄酒行业在阿里巴巴的平台上,大力发展酒类电商业务,并且宣布要在9月9日举办天猫全球酒水节。当时给意大利葡萄酒行业带来了信心和期望,也带动了国内进口商对意大利葡萄酒的兴趣。

现在天猫酒水节已经结束一段时间,新年将至,我们特别采访了部分行业商会代表,进口商,意大利生产商,以及酒类专业人士等,希望能帮助读者了解意大利葡萄酒在中国市场的发展现状。

99天猫国际酒水节与意大利葡萄酒

意大利主要葡萄酒生产商GIV集团中国总经理Pizzoli Marco认为:“99天猫国际酒水节有助于提高网络消费者对意大利葡萄酒的关注度,尽管销售成绩可能要未来才能看到。”

天裕风范经营醉芙蓉酒庄在内的四个意大利酒庄,CEO庄武英认为:“实话说,第一届阿里巴巴葡萄酒酒节对行业和对社会普通消费者的影响力不如预期的大。可能与准备时间仓促有关。”

“阿里巴巴运用国人对数字的敏感与痴迷,成功地创造了‘双十一’,但打造一个专业有效的葡萄酒节比单纯的单身购物剁手的传播要复杂得多。当然马云在意大利葡萄酒展上的高调宣布对意大利产区的知名度有一定推动,我们乐见。”

意大利托斯卡纳精品酒名庄AVIGNONESI亚洲市场负责人陈睎认为,首届酒水节“准备的时间比较仓促,能够联合起来的酒庄毕竟有限。对于我们这样的精品小酒庄而言,在天猫现有平台上能够发挥的还比较有限。”

ASC精品酒业发言人则指出:“在中国的葡萄酒行业,投入如此大规模的资金对葡萄酒进行宣传的企业,阿里巴巴是第一个。意大利葡萄酒是本次活动的主要支持方之一,肯定会从本次大规模的宣传中受益,增加品牌认知度,销售收入也有望提高。”

意大利驻华商会主席苏捷傲(Sergio Bertasi)认为:“阿里巴巴的工作,是把意大利生活方式的图像描绘给消费者。但如我所言,中国消费者与意大利葡萄酒之间的磨合只能慢慢推进。只是把意大利葡萄酒引进超市,中国消费者看到了就会去买吗,我不这么认为。”

“阿里巴巴为意大利葡萄酒打开了一扇门,而要将酒卖给消费者,并将文化传递给他们,则要靠我们自己的努力。我们踏出了第一步,还有很长的路要走。”GIV集团中国总经理Pizzoli Marco总结道。

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意大利葡萄酒在中国面临的挑战

“在中国意大利葡萄酒一直是作为法国葡萄酒的补充而存在,这样的尴尬地位显然与它在国际上和历史的地位不符。”天裕风范CEO庄武英说道。

“我们的酒单里面,意大利酒算是比较多,仅次于法国酒之后,意大利葡萄酒红白加在一起,可能占整个酒单的18% 。”北京柏悦酒店葡萄酒总监李美玉介绍道,“平时销售来说,主动点意大利酒的人不那么多,一般是懂酒的人,或者是一些意大利人。普通消费者的话,主动点意大利酒还是比较少。”

这其中的原因,一部分是因为产品质量良莠不齐,此外消费者“对意大利酒的了解途径还是比较少,再加上大部分人不懂酒标上的意大利文,这可能是意大利酒在传播上的一个挑战”,李美玉指出。

华饮(SinoDrink)总经理刘强对此表示同意:“意大利葡萄酒整体的国家形象在中国还没有完整的建立,目前还没有一个意大利品牌在中国市场上突围,意大利葡萄酒的进口在国内还没形成规模和体系,所以意大利葡萄酒在中国市场上的普及还有很远的路要走。”

ASC精品酒业发言人认为,复杂的本土品种、为数众多的产区以及纷杂的产区法规,现阶段令消费者望而却步,但是“意大利葡萄酒最大的挑战也是其最大的机遇。”

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意大利葡萄酒在中国推广的优势和未来市场预期

“国人对意大利生活方式有着天生的亲近感,尤其对意大利奢侈品牌比较痴迷,在对于意大利葡萄酒来说比较占优势。”华饮总经理刘强说道。

天裕风范CEO庄武英认为,“中国还是一个纷乱的新兴市场,可能更有利于新世界葡萄酒大鳄以品牌和葡萄酒品种的角度切入,但一旦饮用葡萄酒的消费者体量提升,大家在品鉴及消费上一定会升级,意大利的小众形象必然受到青睐,这是大趋势。”

“这也是我们在很多相对成熟的新兴市场见到的现象。在美国,意大利葡萄酒依赖强大的移民后裔和广布的意大利餐厅获得了很大的市场份额。在中国,意大利葡萄酒可加强其文化上的优势,很多的产区地名对于普通国人也是耳熟能详比如西西里、坎帕尼亚的那不勒斯等,有利于该地区文化的推广。”

“其实我们基本就可以看日本市场是怎么发展的,中国市场可能也会如此。刚开始难免只是选法国的波尔多,之后意大利酒会慢慢地呈上升趋势的。”北京柏悦酒店葡萄酒总监李美玉说道,“只不过需要我们去引导消费,然后就是需要专业人士去推荐。”

GIV集团中国总经理Pizzoli Marco也指出:“随着消费者葡萄酒知识的增长,意大利葡萄酒的产品系列其实十分适合市场未来的发展趋势,这一点我很有自信。但是,意大利需要增加投入,提高市场份额,宣传自身优势。”

“意大利酒的性价比和多样性是很大的优势。”AVIGNONESI酒庄亚洲市场负责人陈睎认为,“在大多数成熟市场上意大利酒都特别受欢迎,我们在上海市场也看到了这样的趋势,我们对意大利酒在中国的未来很有信心,但这是需要耐心去精耕细作的市场。”

“意大利葡萄酒与其他的意大利元素一样,接受起来需要时间,快不得。”意大利驻华商会主席苏捷傲说道。

“我们希望看到的是持续不断的、战略前后一致的以国家、产区和联合会的多层次、多频次的推广。持之以恒,意大利葡萄酒一定能走出自己在中国市场的独特之路。”天裕风范CEO庄武英总结道。

 

(*点击http://www.Decanter China.com查看原文,查询身边的优质葡萄酒,读遍名家专栏,学练WSET知识点,阅览海内外葡萄酒信息。DecanterChina.com是1975年创刊的国际葡萄酒权威媒体Decanter为日益成长的中国葡萄酒爱好者量身打造的中英文双语网站。)

Group interview: Australian wines in China in the post-Free Trade era

By Maxime Lu / 陆江

What has changed for Australian wines in China since the two countries signed the Free Trade Agreements a year ago? Decanter spoke exclusively to Wine Australia, Chinese importers and wine experts to grasp the momentum.

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Image: Australian Trade and Investment Minister Andrew Robb and Chinese Commerce Minister Gao Hucheng signing the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement in Canberra on 17 June 2015, witnessed by Prime Minister Tony Abbott. Photo: DFAT/Andrew Taylor

The latest of tariff reduction

The latest tariff reduction after the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement came to effect on 1st January 2016.

The second stage of the tariff reduction mean that Australian wines now enjoy a tax rate of 8.4%, as oppose to the original 14%, when entering China, according to Explanatory Schedule of Chinese Tariff Commitments published by Australia’s Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade.

What has changed so far – Trade body

‘The change mainly lies in the way people see Australian wines,’ Willa Yang, head of trade body Wine Australia in China, told DecanterChina.com.

‘The Australian wineries and importers are much more confident for the market as their products are expected to become more competitive price-wise,’ said Yang.

During the 12 months until September 2016, the export value of Australian wines to China has increased 51% to reach 474 million AUD, while the export volume has increased 52% to hit 90 million litres, according to Wine Australia.

‘The increase is evident to the positive effect of the Free Trade Agreement,’ said Yang.

 

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Image: Eden Valley, credit Chris Mercer

Importers

For the importers, the actual effect comes more gradually.

‘We are seeing more and more Australian wineries or brand owners coming to build their online shops, or joining big online wholesalers on Tmall International,’ said Huang Jing of the New Media Department of Alibaba, adding that they are currently working with supermarket and wholesaler groups including Woolworths and Metcash.

‘We saw great growths in sales of Australian wines,’ agreed Joanna Zheng, Senior Product Director of Amazon China.

‘It (Free Trade Agreement) is good news to the market in China but so far its impact on the cost is limited, consequently on the market overall,’ said Matthew Gong, spokesperson of ASC Fine Wines.

‘However, it will eventually give more competitive edge in pricing to Australian wines for their long term development in China.’

Although there’s no significant influence on sales yet, ‘we saw more attention and investment to the Chinese market from producers’, said Wang Xiaoshan, Market Director of Joyvio, wine importer and subsidiary of IT giant Legend Holdings, which also owns Lenovo.

‘The tariff reduction can eventually help merchants to reduce 20% of their costs,’ explained Marcus Ford, General Manager of Pudao Wines and Head of Wine Langton’s East Asia, ‘though it’s still far from the tax-free Hong Kong market.’

Therefore the benefit of the bilateral trade agreement is ‘mainly to attract more attention and investment to Australian Wines,’ said Ford.

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Image: Australian cellar, credit Chris Mercer

Consumers

For consumers, the reduced tariff has brought more ‘minor’ or ‘lesser known’ Australian wines to China, said Christian Zhang, head sommelier of Shanghai Yacht Club On The Bund.

‘Consumers have started to recognise Australian wine brands other than Penfolds. They have started to realise that Australian wines may be a more value-for-money choice than French wines.’

The challenges

The Free Trade Agreement has attracted many to set their feet into the wine industry ‘before getting fully prepared for it,’ warned Ford.

‘The most important thing is how you can get the wines sold,’ he added, ‘It’s not enough just shipping the wines over to China.’

‘For the top-end Australian wines, besides a few famous brands, the vast majority still need an enormous amount of marketing to make them known to consumers,’ said Gong.

The use of screw caps on the more expensive Australian wines is another challenge for consumers to make the decision to buy.

‘Although professional buyers would not mind screw caps, some consumers would still doubt the quality of the wine, especially when they need to pay a higher price for it,’ said Wang Xiaoshan.

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Image: Chinese wine lovers at Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter

The potential

While Chilean, Argentinian and Spanish wines are fighting for market share in the price bracket under 100 RMB (10 GBP), ‘in the price bracket between 150 to 200 RMB (15 to 20 GBP), you can already find many value-for-money Australian wines,’ said Marcus Ford.

‘This should become the mainstream for Australian wines,’ he said, adding that Australian wines are no longer synonym to ‘cheap wines’, and the top brands are responsible for raising the general image of Australian wines in China.

However, to ensure a long-term development of Australian wines, how to better tackle fake wines is crucial, said Christian Zhang.

‘For example, among the top Australian wines brought by consumers to our restaurant, half or even more can be fake,’ he said.

‘This is seriously damaging to the good name of the producers and their future in the Chinese market.’

In addition, Australian producers should consider adjusting their offering based on market preferences, said the sommelier.

Half-dry Riesling, for example, will be more welcomed by Chinese consumers than the widely available bone-dry style, he said.

As the next step, Wine Australia plans to ‘bring more events to second or third-tier cities in China’, said Willa Yang.

‘The mission is to make consumers feel less distant to (Autralian) wines, and make them feel that this is something they can enjoy casually.’

*This article is an abstract of the original interview.

Translated by Sylvia Wu / 吴嘉溦

The DecanterChina interview: Pudao Wines

By

Eighteen months after being purchased by Australia’s Woolworths, Pudao Wines spoke exclusively to DecanterChina.com about its next steps forward.

Image: Marcus Ford at Decanter Asia Wine Awards judging week
Image: Marcus Ford at Decanter Asia Wine Awards judging week

The new investor

More than a year and half ago, the news broke that Pudao Wines, together with its sister firm Summergate, was purchased by Woolworths, one of Australia’s largest wine retailers.

Marcus Ford, general manager of Pudao, said the business ‘has benefitted greatly over the course of the past 18 months in establishing more sophisticated systems and processes.’

‘When Woolworth’s acquired Dan Murphy’s in Australia it too was a small retailer with a very few shops, [and] now it is the dominant wine retailer in the Australian market,’ said Ford, hinting at the retailer’s potential in Greater China.

The post-austerity period

As a fine wine retailer that initially put great emphasis on the corporate gifting sector, Pudao has had to adapt to a new reality.

‘Very few companies now use wine as a gift and those that do are more focused on value offerings than the super premiums of years gone by,’ said Ford.

Currently, most of Pudao’s consumers are buying wines at between 100 to 500RMB (£10-£50) per bottle. ‘Our customers are very open-minded about region and style.’

Amid general changes in the market, ‘we have continued to grow at a healthy and sustainable rate’, said Ford.

Try before you buy

For Pudao Wines, which owns an online store and two offline shops, ‘try before you buy’ is the key in promoting wines to Chinese consumers, said Ford.

The retailer therefore actively invites customers to try wines in their flagship stores in Shanghai and Beijing, and organises hundreds of tasting events, he said.

Offering a specialised service is also important, said Ford. ‘The majority of our staff came from a service background.’

Fake wine: ‘Not just a China problem’

Another concern that’s stopping Chinese consumers from buying wines is the risk of getting fake wines.

‘I would point out though that the fine wine market has problems globally and consumers need to be aware that this is not just a “China problem”,’ said Ford.

‘We work with established importers and have great relationships with many, we are 100% focused on sourcing from the best.’

China in the next 5 to 10 years

‘I think over the past 10 to 15 years the wine market in China has been through some very exciting and sometimes over-heated times,’ said Ford.

The next 5 to 10 years will see a ‘more stable market’ develop as consumers grow in confidence. A key element will be how domestic wines perform, and whether they can compete on quality and value against imported wines, said Ford.

He added that Pudao Wines ‘aims to open more stores over the coming years’, but won’t be rushed.

‘Imported wine is really only a decade old in the China market so whilst we are ambitious we are also in no hurry to open a huge network of stores.

‘In Hong Kong we have re-branded our business under the Langton’s banner (part of the Group) and we are very excited about our fine wine brokerage service that is now up and running there.’

Word of advice for people new to the wine business

‘Wine is a complex business with many layers- some wines are commodities, some are like fast moving consumer goods, some are boutique productions and some are like luxuries and collectibles.

‘You need to be very precise about understanding your customers, what they are looking for and how as a retailer you can add value to their experience.’

Translated by Sylvia Wu / 吴嘉溦

Amazon China: Who is drinking imported fine wines in China– exclusive interview

By Maxime Lu / 陆江

(Published on DecanterChina.COM,  Chinese version of Decanter.)

 

Amazon China speaks exclusively to Decanter China about the scale of their wine business and who are their key consumers.

1Image: Shi Jianjun, vice president of Amazon China, credit Amazon China

The scale of Amazon China’s wine business

The number of wine brands sold directly by Amazon China has ‘quadrupled’ in the last three years, with sales increasing by more than 100% every year, SHI Jianjun, vice president of Amazon China, told DecanterChina.com.

Amazon China launched its wine business in August 2012, followed by a direct import business from September 2013. Now the online shop directly sells wines from the US, France, Australia and Italy, covering more than 130 brands and nearly 800 wines and other fruit-based alcohol.

The wine sector is becoming one of the ‘focal points’ of the online retailer’s direct import business, said Shi Jianjun. ‘As the population of white collar workers increases in China, and the market’s wine knowledge inproves, we are very confident in growing wine sales in China.’

Who is buying the wines and for how much

‘90% of wines sold on Amazon China are imported wines,’ said Shi.

Currently around 3,800 wine products (‘stock keeping unit’ SKU) are sold across the platform.

Wines priced at between 100-300RMB (11 to 34GBP) are currently the most popular on Amazon China, with France being the best-selling origin of wine, followed by Australia, Chile and USA.

Consumers buying wines from Amazon China are mainly aged between 23-40 from first-tier cities including Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, second-tier cities on the eastern coast and provincial capitals, according to the vice president.

Recent Wine Intelligence research found that 48 million consumers from the ‘urban upper middle class’ are now drinking wines at least twice a year, up by more than a quarter than 2014.

135876_amazon-interview-2-shi-jianjun-2Image: Shi Jianjun, vice president of Amazon China, credit Amazon China

Choosing the right suppliers

Amazon China’s advantage ‘lies in the Amazon group’s globalised presence’, said Shi, comparing the business to domestic players.

The buyers of Amazon China share information on wineries with Amazon buyers around the world. After an initial selection of producers, the buyers would visit producing areas and wineries to taste and choose the products. ‘We look for value-for-money wines that are suitable to Chinese consumer’s palate’, said the vice president.

In June 2016, Amazon China established its own wine club. The online retailer plans to invite wineries to hold tastings for wine club members so as to ‘double check’ if these wines will be liked by a wider group of Chinese consumers.

The provenance of the wines sold by Amazon China, said Shi, is ‘protected at the origin’ as all brands sold by Amazon China come either directly from the wineries or the distributors appointed by the producers.

‘We don’t only sell those big global brands, but also the less famous wineries which have their unique features and can well-demonstrate the local terroir,’ he said.

2016: year of expansion

Unlike many of its peers, Amazon China has been comparatively low-key about its wine business.

This year, the online retailer seeks to further utilize its ‘global resources’ to sell more fine wines directly from around the world, said Shi.

Last month Amazon China launched an Australian direct imports wine section, featuring fine Aussie wines including those from the Langton’s classification.

The move will lead to a second and more extensive Amazon China International Wine Festival later this year, said the vice president, during which the online retailer will launch an ‘International wine pavilion国际红酒馆’—a major update from its current wine section.

A heated wine sales contest against its domestic peers seems to be around the corner.

 

Maxime Lu / 陆江

-The founder and Chief wine editor of WineOnline.CN since 2005
-The founder and Chief wine educator of  WineSchool.CN since 2006
-The founder and main contributor for WineBlogChina.COM since 2011
-Wine Judge for international wine competitions: Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2015(Hongkong) , Wines of Portugal Challenge 2014(Lisbon) , Radici del Sud 2013 ( Puglia ) ,and some domestic wine competitions.
-A contributor for Decanter China(Chinese version of Decanter.com),Prowine China(Prowein branch) and for main stream media on fashion, finance , food and wine.
-The consultant of  Wine Collection.
-The consultant of wine companies.