豪庄赛格拉酒庄(Rauzan-Segla)350周年及2009年份发布品酒午宴

     豪庄.赛格拉酒庄(Château Rauzan-Ségla)垂直品鉴

陆江(Maxime)/万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部 

2011年12月14日我应邀参加了香奈儿(Chanel)集团旗下的波尔多名庄豪庄.赛格拉酒庄(Château Rauzan-Ségla)在上海半岛酒店举办的品鉴午宴。以前在北京见过数面的酒庄总经理John Kolasa在现场讲解交流。

John Kolasa - Chateau Ranzan-Segla

Château Rauzan-Ségla酒庄总经理John Kolasa/陆江拍摄

豪庄.赛格拉酒庄(Château Rauzan-Ségla)由波尔多酒商Pierre de Rauzan创建于1661年,正好也是法国太阳王路易十四加冕的那一年。经过不懈努力和发展,在1855年评级时被定为头等苑2等庄(2ème Grand Cru Classé En 1855)。

2011年正值酒庄的350周年,同时年末,也是酒庄2009年份正式上市之际。我们有幸成为2009年份,国内正式发布后,最早喝到的第一批品酒人。 2009年份是公认的波尔多超级年份,对于豪庄.赛格拉酒庄来说也是个世纪大年,为此还请出香奈儿集团的创意总监卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)为其设计手绘酒标,当然法律要求的信息主要被印于背标。另外,这次为了以示重视,香奈儿Chanel集团中国区总裁Claus Vestergaard Oldager 先生和公关经理Grace CHAO也都列席品鉴午宴。

Chateau Ranzan-Segla 2009

Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2009/卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)手绘酒标

Claus Vestergaard Oldager -Chanel China

香奈儿集团中国区总裁Claus Vestergaard Oldager 

豪庄.赛格拉酒庄(Château Rauzan-Ségla)拥有52公顷(130英亩)葡萄园,位于玛歌产区,品种为赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)、梅洛(Merlot)、品丽珠(Cabernet Franc)和小味儿多(Petit Verdot)。土壤主要是细碎砾石及黏土组成,海拔20米左右。 

在和John Kolasa交流中,他还提到了制酒理念,酒庄竭尽全力尊重自然,以葡萄品质为先。面对近年来Fine wine的涨价热潮,酒庄还是保持一个合理的价格,只是根据品质来浮动价格。他们的目标是要让客户喝过,还能继续选择豪庄.赛格拉酒庄。

关于刚发布的2009年份的市场销售情况,John Kolasa也提到,70%的酒在期酒阶段已经售完。     

John Kolasa

通过这次交流和以前的感觉,能明显体会到John Kolasa,是个对葡萄酒富有激情,而且用心做事的葡萄酒庄经理人,并不追求那些时髦技术和短视行为,相信酒庄在其带领之下会尊重风土,重返巅峰。

还有特别要提到的是,John Kolasa先生在设计方面也颇有功底,还专门为豪庄.赛格拉酒庄设计了特定的醒酒器,也为同是香奈儿旗下的Chateau Canon设计了特别款醒酒器,有机会访问酒庄时就可以看到。

本次品鉴午宴中,我们试到了Chateau Rauzan Segla 2009、1999、1996、1989、1986年份.以及Segla 2005.

 Chateua Ranzan-Segla

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2009

1个半小时醒酒;深紫红,不透光,边缘鲜亮;黑莓,李子干,樱桃,灌木,红玫瑰花瓣,桑椹,紫罗兰,成熟李子,花香,咖啡糖,丁香,橡木味道还有待发展;重酒体,饱满又凝缩,单宁细腻有力,庞大结构,不失细致,中强酸度,恰当的活跃感,灵动,前后贯穿;回味长,有烟熏,咖啡豆。尚有很强的陈年潜力。

Segla 2005

暗紫红,醒了2小时,有黑醋栗,黑巧克力,烘烤味道;中等酒体,简单,平衡,单宁中等略粗,后段略淡薄,回味中等,有黑巧克力余味。

Chateau Rauzan Segla 1999 

深邃,石榴红;有藏红花,咖啡,雪茄,皮革,松露,香气中等强度,雅致;中重酒体,酸度活跃中强,单宁天鹅绒,两颊收敛有力,略瘦,回味中长,灌木,咖啡余味;梅洛特质明显。

Chateau Rauzan Segla  1996

深暗红色,微锈色;有咖啡豆,雪茄等气息,略封闭,香气中等强度;重酒体,凝缩庞大,酸度中等活跃,单宁有力刚强,很棒的结构感,整体细致平衡,有层次感,回味长, 有烟熏,黑巧克力味道。有赤霞珠的典型特质。

Chateau Rauzan Segla 1989

宝石红色边缘微桔色,有着皮革,湿灌木丛,以及松露,咖啡豆,雪茄盒的气息;单宁强劲,细致庞大,收敛有力刚强,层次感,非常平衡,雄壮,回味长,有雪茄余味。

Chateau Rauzan Segla 1986

酒色与96年份相似,偏石榴红;有着主导的动物皮毛、松露,以及雪茄盒和皮革的味道;入口微苦,酒体中重,单宁细腻雅致,凝缩且又活跃,酸度适中,有层次感,庞大结构,严谨,整体平衡;回味长,灵动不空洞。

我个人会偏好2009,1996,1986三个年份,结构很好,单宁细腻,细致平衡,饱满不失灵动。

2009年份波尔多期酒消极因素-Bordeaux Prices to Drop Big in U.S.

前面刚说完2009年份波尔多期酒的可能疯狂, 不过<商业周刊>(BusinessWeek)这则前几周的消息也许对波尔多贪婪的庄主们来说是个要考虑的消极因素因素. 希望能对他们定价有影响!

作为在美最大的波尔多顶级酒进口商,帝亚吉奥Diageo美国分支Chateau & Estate Wines将要退出美国的波尔多酒市场,为此抛售巨量波尔多列级酒, 带动整个美国市场的波尔多列级酒价格急挫,一些品种甚至下跌达到50%.  阴霾笼罩整个美国市场以及影响到法国波尔多. 葡萄酒爱好者将会受益.

不过最后的那句:”Several chateaux told me they expect the Chinese will buy big during the futures campaign this year.”(一些酒庄告诉我,他们认为今年中国人将会在这场期酒活动中大量采购),无语中…….

http://www.businessweek.com/lifestyle/content/mar2010/bw20100316_823658.htm

Bordeaux Prices to Drop Big in U.S.
波尔多价格在美国暴挫.

As importing giant Diageo pulls out of the U.S. Bordeaux market, wine lovers will benefit as prices are expected to fall dramatically

Review by Elin McCoy
(Bloomberg) — “What’s terrifying,” said John Kolasa, managing director of Bordeaux chateau Rauzan-Segla, “is what will happen to Bordeaux wines in America now that Diageo has bowed out.”
I was sipping his silky, charming 2007, one of the best wines from this lackluster vintage poured at the annual Union des Grands Crus tasting in New York, which never includes the first growths.
So far 2010 is awash in discounted Bordeaux and the mostly middle-rung ’07s promise more. That’s because the biggest U.S. importer of Bordeaux wines, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, a unit of British drinks giant Diageo Plc, announced last year that it was getting out of the Bordeaux business in the U.S.—and then started selling off its vast inventory in October.
Clyde Beffa Jr., owner of Bay Area K & L Wines and one of several retailers offered stock, said Chateau & Estate’s list included approximately $125 million of top Bordeaux. Diageo Director of Communications Maire Griffin declined to provide numbers.
For the past four decades, Chateau & Estate dominated the U.S. Bordeaux business, purchasing thousands of cases of the region’s top names as futures every year. Its large inventory of past vintages made it a one-stop shop for retailers and restaurateurs looking for Bordeaux. Diageo will continue to sell Bordeaux outside the U.S. through its London-based unit Justerini & Brooks.
“This is the end of a very nice story for Bordeaux,” Emmanuel Cruse, whose family owns Chateau d’Issan, said in a phone interview. “The national system is dead.”
Buyers’ Bonanza
For wine lovers, it’s good news.
“Bordeaux will get cheaper,” said negociant Ivanhoe Johnston, with whom I chatted over a spit bucket at the tasting.
Last fall Chateau & Estate and its distributors sent spreadsheets listing recent and older Bordeaux vintages to key U.S. players, such as Beffa and Chris Adams, president of New York’s Sherry-Lehmann. Beffa said he scooped up wines at 40 percent to 60 percent off wholesale. He’s already out of 2006 Chateau Trotanoy, which he sold at half off.
Sherry-Lehmann is selling bottles of some 2006s for 10 percent to 15 percent less than they cost as futures 2 1/2 years ago, Adams said. The 2005 Chateau Greysac, which was an exclusive with Chateau & Estate, can now be had in some shops for as little as $12.
‘Sliced and Diced’
“No one had the means to take on all the inventory,” Robert Wilmers, owner of Chateau Haut-Bailly and chief executive officer of M & T Bank Corp., told me at a Wine Media Guild lunch before the tasting. “It was sliced and diced.”
In the past few months two Bordeaux negociant firms have stepped in to fill the void, snapping up the best Chateau and Estates stocks at very attractive prices.
“We bought mainly 2005 and older vintages,” said David Milligan, president of Joanne USA, the New York office of the Bordeaux negociant, by phone.
Compagnie Medocaine, a unit of AXA Millesimes, which also owns several top chateaux, has teamed up with New York fine-wine importer Frederick Wildman, and started selling on March 1. Negociant Diva Bordeaux will open a New York office in May, Chief Executive Officer Jean-Pierre Rousseau said in a phone call.
“Nature hates a vacuum,” said Laurent Ehrmann, general manager of negociant Barriere Freres. “It will be filled by different means.”
Unloading 2007s
Which brings me back to the unloved 2007s. According to Diageo’s Griffin, the company begins unloading the rest of their 2007s this month.
That may be tough. Sales of high-end wines in restaurants are flat and everyone agreed the 2007 futures were overpriced for the quality back in spring 2008.
At their best the reds are fruity, early-drinking charmers that have lift and freshness but lack concentration. For under $30, look for firm, rich classics like Cantemerle and Poujeaux. I also liked pricier Beychevelle, Giscours, Haut-Bailly and especially Rauzan-Segla. Dry whites like Domaine de Chevalier and sweet Sauternes, like good value Doisy-Daene, are the stars. Watch for deeper discounts: K & L Bordeaux specialist Ralph Sands predicts “a bloodbath,” with prices up to 50 percent off.
The buyer-friendly market won’t last forever. The consensus among retailers is that bargains will be gone in six to eight months. Of course, if the financial markets crash again, all bets are off.
Chateau owners at the UGC tasting were hyping the reportedly spectacular 2009s (I’ll report on those in detail next month after attending the annual en primeur tastings). In the minds of the Bordelaise, this kind of “vintage of the century” is supposed to translate into very high prices, as it did for the 2005s. But the global financial climate has changed.
Several chateaux told me they expect the Chinese will buy big during the futures campaign this year.
I’ve heard that one before.
(Elin McCoy writes on wine and spirits for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are her own.)
To contact the writer of the story: Elin McCoy at elinmccoy@gmail.com.